Can I run a 55 shot of NOS safely on Stock internals (w/ S Cams).
This will be added soon.
Later on (next summer perhaps) can I add a turbo @ a reasonable boost w/ the NOS on stock internals, but before Turbo is added I will upgrade the valve train and Port/polish the head.
I'm looking @ NOS Wetkit, and Drag Gen 3 turbo.
I'm NOT looking to be the fastest luder, so I want to keep the boost low so she can be reliable still-the NOS will be just for the track.
Thanks in advance for all answers, Sorry the question sounds kinda dumb, I've still got alot to learn about turbos.
The Drag Gen 3 kit will be out by summer? Well, it'll be something for me to look at ... in a couple of years :P
The biggest problem with happyjuice is that, like air, it needs fuel to make you happy. You could run the 55-shot with proper tuning on stock internals (doesn't Malken have like a 70 shot?), but if you're going to go turbo + happyjuice, then you'll probably need to upgrade the fuel injectors and fuel pump.
That's good though, since you should upgrade them anyway! And you are looking for reliability after all...
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<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by atlxchink: When I try to picture o0OO0o as a moderator, the image of Beavis hacking away at the keyboard comes to mind </font>
Fuel pump and injectors?
Can do! (kinda wanted an ODB1 anyway )
Im worried about things like rods and crank and sleeving the block. I don't want to spend another 10K on the prelude's engine.
<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by coil222: Fuel pump and injectors?
Can do! (kinda wanted an ODB1 anyway )
Im worried about things like rods and crank and sleeving the block. I don't want to spend another 10K on the prelude's engine.
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You don't need OBD1 to get a new fuel pump and injectors.
Well, obviously you're going to get more wear and tear on the bottom end - you're running more power than is spec. But I don't think it will be significant. Pistons, resleeving the block, rods - that all becomes necessary with high boost. But nitrous doesn't need a low compression ratio and it doesn't heat the engine up - if anything, it cools it down.
However, that doesn't mean that detonation won't be a problem if you don't get enough fuel to the combustion chamber!
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<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by atlxchink: When I try to picture o0OO0o as a moderator, the image of Beavis hacking away at the keyboard comes to mind </font>
<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by coil222: is replacing injectors and fuel pump a big deal or pretty easy? What should I expect for parts/labor?
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I don't think it's too hard. I think a Helm's is really important for it though, and from what I've heard it's labor-intensive. But I've never done it or seen it done, so I can't speak from experience.
Parts costs? No idea. I know that RC Engineering makes injectors for the 5g though.
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<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by atlxchink: When I try to picture o0OO0o as a moderator, the image of Beavis hacking away at the keyboard comes to mind </font>
Replacing fuel pump - it depends on the pump. Try installing a big Bosche high flow fuel pump. You have to get in there with a hammer and bend some of the baffles out of the way to get the damn thing to fit. Lucky for me, I only have to use the small Bosche pump, so it should be quite a bit easier.
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Billy
North Texas Prelude Owners Group
www.ntpog.org
<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by Pure Lude: 55 shot + 4-7psi on stock internals = the big boom! hehe
the t3/t4 turbo is not very efficient at less than 5psi.i would just toss the idea of nos + turbo + no engine work . keep it simple. </font>
Why do you think it will blow? Obviously you don't want to run the nitrous into higher gears, but the stock internals should be able to handle the power as long as you deliver the fuel.
but why even add that extra risk of using NOS, when you can get a comprable power gain by just tuning the turbo correctly. There's no point in risking your motor by using turbo plus nos if you don't wanna be the "fastest luder". H22a's are awesome motors, but it's no supra motor the bottom end isn't bullet proof. And if he doesn't wanna spend the money on internals then what is he gonna do if his motor blows up?
I mean Can you run a 55 shot with a turbo pushin 5lbs of boost? probably. Is it worth taking the risk? probably not. If you're gonna take a risk like that you may as well just pump the boost up a couple pounds.
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2000 Prelude base,
AEM CAI, 17" 5zigen Inperio S0-8's (white)
APEXi N-1 Catback
Ground Control Coilovers
Tokico Non Adjustables FORMER MEMBER of Sindicate Racing
Well, it seems obvious, but you're really just wasting your time on the NOS if you're seriously going to go turbo later. Put that money towards something else.
<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by StAtiC: but why even add that extra risk of using NOS, when you can get a comprable power gain by just tuning the turbo correctly. There's no point in risking your motor by using turbo plus nos if you don't wanna be the "fastest luder". H22a's are awesome motors, but it's no supra motor the bottom end isn't bullet proof. And if he doesn't wanna spend the money on internals then what is he gonna do if his motor blows up?
I mean Can you run a 55 shot with a turbo pushin 5lbs of boost? probably. Is it worth taking the risk? probably not. If you're gonna take a risk like that you may as well just pump the boost up a couple pounds.
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6lbs + 55shot, or even 5lbs +55 shot is WAY cheaper to get done than building your engine up with rods, pistons, etc. so you can run 8lbs.
While there is a risk in using N20, if you set it up properly it's no worse than a turbo. I don't know how much trouble it is to tune, but since N20 + SC/Turbo is a common combo on many domestics and high-end imports, I think there are enough people out there who can do it.
Hmm... but with all that extra power going through, maybe investing in a block guard is a good idea? =/
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<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by atlxchink: When I try to picture o0OO0o as a moderator, the image of Beavis hacking away at the keyboard comes to mind </font>
Just to inform you that the H22 motor is a closed deck block. If you remove the head it will look nothing like that of a B16 or B18 block. There is no reason (or way possable) to install a block guard on a H22. Just thought I would let you know.
6lbs + 55shot, or even 5lbs +55 shot is WAY cheaper to get done than building your engine up with rods, pistons, etc. so you can run 8lbs.
While there is a risk in using N20, if you set it up properly it's no worse than a turbo. I don't know how much trouble it is to tune, but since N20 + SC/Turbo is a common combo on many domestics and high-end imports, I think there are enough people out there who can do it.
Hmm... but with all that extra power going through, maybe investing in a block guard is a good idea? =/
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Where are you getting your info from? What do you think the block guard is going to do? I'm not trying to attack you, I'm just curious where you get these ideas from.
There are enough people safely running 8lbs on a stock head that I would feel it safe and in fact will be in a couple of months when I swap out my current stuff into my base so I can change the fuel system.
As long as the fuel is tuned, you should be fine. I would invest in a J&S safeguard, but with that and correct fuel it would be safe. I would realy say though that it makes much more sense to run 7-8lbs alone instead of 5+NOS, just for simplicity sake alone, plus your spending all the money on the turbo, why not use it and not deal with having the cost of NOS refils, plus your runs and stuff would be more consistent I would imagine, atleast at first since you can learn on the setup more of the time.
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