THE most cost effective way to build an H22A for high output NA? - Honda Prelude Forum

Mike95lude · 09-02-2002, 01:49 PM

My 95 Prelude VTEC was rearended and is now totaled

. I already have the engine ready to be pulled from the car, just need to borrow an engine hoist from a friend.

Since the engine will be out of the car and my friends and I are fairly mechanically inclined I figure we should be able to "wrench" on just about anything outside and inside the engine. The H22A has 89,000 miles on it and the original timing belt, which we should easily be able to change.

Now, what would be the best way to rebuild this motor and which parts of it should I replace or replace with aftermarket parts? It will have to run on 92 octane pump gas. I also would like to $pend as little as I need to. I figure, we should be able to cover all or almost all labor.

Things I'm thinking I should do for sure:

-JDM Type-S pistons 11:1 compression (standard or .25 over?)
-Crower or Skunk2 camshafts
-Crower or skunk2 valve train
-hondata IM insulator gasket
-bored throttal body? (RC engineering?)

Critique those things if you can. And what else should I do? I don't want to do things like send my head off to some company and pay for Stage 20 or something headwork. Thanks

marcucci · 09-02-2002, 02:01 PM

I doubt you will need to bore/hone the engine, and would recommend against it unless it is scored. Be SURE to follow all the instructions for the hone for new pistons, and for checking the A or B size (even stock, they were mixed). For that reason, I would ditch the idea of the .25 over unless you have money to burn to do it right.

I think the Crower or the Skunk cams and valvetrain would be a good idea. The Hondata IM is an excellent one as well. A bored TB would probably be a waste... I'd go for a stocker like an S2k, ITR, etc., unless you can bore for less.

Keep in mind you REALLY should get a standalone for all of this, though a VAFC would work if you don't have the cash left over (can always go to it later).

fourthgeneration · 09-02-2002, 04:39 PM

I would also look into maybe extrude honing the IM, and port and polish

Mike95lude · 09-02-2002, 05:22 PM

Yes definately. I'll probably get Hondata for the standalone. What is extrude honing the intake manifold exactly?

fourthgeneration · 09-02-2002, 05:30 PM

www.extrudehone.com I have no idea what they charge.

in a nutshell they shoot a putty with abrasive charactersitics through your IM at pretty fast speeds. It'll abrade and port your IM. It'll get the more restrictive parts of your IM, and has an advantage to normal hand porting tools...

EDIT: eek, I just checked out that site and it's pretty steep. 495 for a 2 piece 4 cyl IM. Prolly better off getting a diff. IM, such as the accord euro R or whatever...

Mike95lude · 09-03-2002, 01:26 PM

Now what things should I do as far as reliability of the motor is concerned. Which gaskets and seals would you all recommend I replace? And things of that nature..

fourthgeneration · 09-03-2002, 02:14 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by Mike95lude
Now what things should I do as far as reliability of the motor is concerned. Which gaskets and seals would you all recommend I replace? And things of that nature..

well I just took apart my head (actually it's still apart)

Obviously you should do your water pump (don't forget water pump sealant from pepboys) ,timing belt, balancer belt
Head gasket (~$50) (all quoted from hondaautomotiveparts.com)
A new IM Gasket (~10) also, you should purchase some gasket remover, your old IM is impossible to pull off
Possibly a TB gasket, mine broke into 50 gazillion peices (~5)
Redo all 16 of the valve seals. (~$3.50x16)
The seals that go next to your cam gears, and the ones that go on the opposite side. I forgot their formal names. (a couple bucks each)
I would prolly order a few extra pairs of valve keepers since they are small and easy to lose.
I also ordered a new valve cover gasket
Crush washers for your injectors
I would also do your fuel filter while your engine/head is out. Its 50 times easier that way.

I know I'm forgetting something

NtPReLuDe · 09-03-2002, 04:08 PM

I don't think you can put cost effective and high output in the same sentence....

Mike95lude · 09-03-2002, 06:49 PM

Quote:

I don't think you can put cost effective and high output in the same sentence....

sure you can. Many people spend tons of cash on a build up and don't do the right things ---> poor results. Or they spend extra money on things that don't help much.

Anton BB6 · 09-03-2002, 08:20 PM

WE NEED A DAMN N/A FORUM!!!!! PLEASE!

Sorry, but damn we have misc classifieds forum for god knows what but no N/A forum!

Had to vent a bit...

spite · 09-03-2002, 09:44 PM

No, there is no economical way for speed. Yes, you can throw a lot of money at a car and get bad results. But it doesn't work the other way - you can't go fast on very little money.

Mike95lude · 09-04-2002, 12:19 AM

Quote:

WE NEED A DAMN N/A FORUM!!!!! PLEASE!

you know that's a damn good idea. Understand though, I'm not asking for the BEST results. I want 200 whp or more, which I am sure I can get with fairly basic things.

I dyno'ed at 183.5 whp with I/H/E and a ghetto tuned V-AFC. I had the highest dyno'ing Prelude on hondaprelude.com's dyno registery mod for mod. I think with Type-S pistons, cams, cam gears, and an FPR I should hit 200 whp no problem. This is relatively inexpensive and high output imo.

spite · 09-04-2002, 12:41 AM

If you're getting Hondata and already have a V-AFC, why would you need a FPR?

If you think that between pistons, cams (and thus valve springs and retainers), cam gears, Hondata, dyno tuning and the labor involved that this will be cheap... you're in for an unpleasant surprise.

marcucci · 09-04-2002, 06:43 AM

To throw in, extrude honing the H22 manifold would be a gross waste of money. The manifold needs to be worked by someone who has done one before. More material needs to be removed in the center section, and only light port matching is needed at the butterflies. You can remove them, as well, if you're looking for more of a "Type R" setup.

Mike95lude · 09-05-2002, 06:53 PM

Are there going to be any weaklinks reving to 8,000 rpm, other than a stock valve-train that I should address?

akprelude · 09-06-2002, 03:43 PM

Man, you should try searching for head work it will bring up some good info also try endyn. They have done some good work with the H22.

Mike95lude · 09-08-2002, 09:25 PM

I don't think I'm really that interested in any headwork that I can't have someone local do or do myself.

Anyone have any results with Skunk2 H22A cams?

DudewithaLude · 09-08-2002, 10:40 PM

man, i wish i knew my way around my own motor....i'd soooo want to build up my own motor