knock sensor bad goes into limp mode which = lean right?
hey guys, ive been fighting a dreadful hesitation problem for quite some time... i have since changed my knock sensor and it has cured the problem.
however, back when i did have the real bad hesitation problem, i had to smog my car for registration and i failed the HC's part at a test only...
a bad knock sensor does cause your car to lean out really bad and can
indefinitely be the reason for my failed hydrocarbons correct?
hehe just want to make sure because im in due to visit the state ref and just hoping since my hesitiation problem is gone, my hc's will be much lower... thanks guys!
btw... my hc's then, measured at 145 and the max allowed for 118 @ 15mph
well... I don't think your knock sensor would of caused your motor to be leaned out.... all it does is sends a signal to the ECM that if there's any pinging going on in the motor.. to retard the timing...
ohhh icic... thanks guys... so whats up with that limp mode then? i was under the impression that when i went WOT it felt like all i was throwing in there was air... or a more air to fuel ratio... so thats where i got the idea that some how a bad knock makes your car "lean" hehe...
running lean just means a higher air to fuel ratio right?
retarded timing just means the spark occurs after the crank reaches top dead center and starts its way back around again? or whats the mechanics behind that
running lean just means a higher air to fuel ratio right?
retarded timing just means the spark occurs after the crank reaches top dead center and starts its way back around again? or whats the mechanics behind that
thanks for the extra knowledge guys
that's pretty much correct. generally a little bit before TDC is optimal. this way as the 'explosion' that is your fuel igniting expands, it pushes the piston back down. this is happening many times per second depending on rpms.
i'm sure there's a wealth of knowledge on websites concerning timing and how it works, tho...this is a very basic interpretation....
that's pretty much correct. generally a little bit before TDC is optimal. this way as the 'explosion' that is your fuel igniting expands, it pushes the piston back down. this is happening many times per second depending on rpms.
i'm sure there's a wealth of knowledge on websites concerning timing and how it works, tho...this is a very basic interpretation....
i couldnt quite get a confirmation on my timing adjustment as i searched:
i was reading im supposed to see a red and white line on my flywheel... but i cant distinguish any colors on my flywheel. All i can notice is one long dash and then a 0 a few "inches" (by timing light reference) below with a small dash next to it and a long dash above and below it... so if youre looking at it from top to bottom it looks like: (-----) then (---) (0-) (----)... my 15° factory timing would be at the 0 in my case right?
if so, i have adjusted it to the 0, but i notice that i am still running a little sluggish despite the huge fix of my hesitation/bogging problem after my knock sensor replacement. i was reading from another thread that too much timing retard can cause your valves to get out of whack...
if that's the case, i have been running on a bad knock sensor for quite some time... which, from what i read above, retards timing. So could my valves be bad due to the extended periods of time driving under abad ks and can that explain my, still, sluggish performance. How do i know if my valves are bad? How easy/hard is it to do a valve adjustment? or how much would it cost to have a shop do it if in fact i do need one.
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