Inboard joint play? - Honda Prelude Forum

Berkley · 02-02-2012, 03:30 PM

I've got a front end clunk on my 99 Prelude SH. I jacked it up and noticed there's quite a bit of play at the inboard CV joint, where it meets the ATTS unit.

Not my video, but it's exactly like this:

inboard joint play - YouTube

Will replacing the driveshaft fix this? Or do I have bigger problems here?

EDIT: Can a base drive shaft be used on an SH? it looks like the base shaft is .5mm shorter?

dontbuyprelude · 02-16-2012, 07:00 PM

is the axle fully seated? there should be a slip ring on the end of the axle. when you push on the axle push it into the trans squarely. i tap the end of it with a sledge hammer and a block of would to pop it in. the drivers side base and sh axles are NOT interchangeable. the passengers side is.

Berkley · 02-16-2012, 08:30 PM

I'll try tapping it in again, but I think it's fully seated already.

I replaced the driver's axle - it appears as though a base axle CAN be used on the drivers side. The Helm's manual lists the length as 484-484.5mm for the base and 485-486 for the SH. The passenger side is considerably different in length - that one is definitely not compatible.

Lots of web sources seem to have the info backwards.

my97lude · 02-16-2012, 08:46 PM

You've got two threads for the same "clunking" problem... you should add this to your previous thread.

That being said, it doesn't make sense for your clunking noise in forward or reverse (as you described in the other/previous thread) to be caused by the axle as it would not cause it to pull in and out in while turning in that direction. Bumps... maybe. Whipping the wheel side to side... maybe. You would have to have a LOT of travel for it to make a distinct and loud CLUNK.

dontbuyprelude · 02-17-2012, 04:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Berkley

I'll try tapping it in again, but I think it's fully seated already.

I replaced the driver's axle - it appears as though a base axle CAN be used on the drivers side. The Helm's manual lists the length as 484-484.5mm for the base and 485-486 for the SH. The passenger side is considerably different in length - that one is definitely not compatible.

Lots of web sources seem to have the info backwards.

unfortunately YOU have the info backwards. base uses an intermediate shaft on the drivers side. sh does not. the ends of the base and sh axles have different ends and are NOT interchangeable.

the passengers side axle is interchangeable despite the few mm in cv boot spacing on the axle.

dontbuyprelude · 02-17-2012, 04:54 PM

^ the helms isnt listing axle length. its listing the spacing between the 2 cv boots befor you clamp down the boot bands.

Berkley · 02-18-2012, 05:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dontbuyprelude

unfortunately YOU have the info backwards. base uses an intermediate shaft on the drivers side. sh does not. the ends of the base and sh axles have different ends and are NOT interchangeable.

the passengers side axle is interchangeable despite the few mm in cv boot spacing on the axle.

Ok, I'll buy that. That would explain why the new axle seems to have similar play. But what makes the ends different? I've been scouring the web trying to find out what specifically the difference is and no one seems to have posted any info.

More specifically, is there anywhere that sells the driver's side axle for an SH? I guess I'll have to call Raxles and get one but the cheap bastard in me was hoping a $100 Napa part would work. Shucks.

dontbuyprelude · 02-19-2012, 10:26 PM

napa doesnt sell a drivers side sh axle?

try holding the axle and cv joints as straight as possible (it will be a bit crooked because of the hub) push the axle hard and SQUARELY into the differential. once all the slack is taken up, get a piece of wood onto the end of axle and give it a few blows with about 40 lbs of force with your sledge hammer. it should "click" in. you can check if its seated by getting underneath the trans and looking straight up at axle and trans. there should be no visible clean shiny metal ring visible on the axle's end where its usually hidden behind the oil seal. if theres shiny metal visible, its not seated.

Berkley · 02-21-2012, 05:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dontbuyprelude

napa doesnt sell a drivers side sh axle?

That's what really confused me. I figured if anyone would recognize a difference, it would be them.

NAPA P/Ns...(for brand new NAPA Max Drive cv shafts)

SH
D/S: 946044
P/S: 946038

Base
D/S: 946044
P/S: 946045

Quote:

try holding the axle and cv joints as straight as possible (it will be a bit crooked because of the hub) push the axle hard and SQUARELY into the differential. once all the slack is taken up, get a piece of wood onto the end of axle and give it a few blows with about 40 lbs of force with your sledge hammer. it should "click" in. you can check if its seated by getting underneath the trans and looking straight up at axle and trans. there should be no visible clean shiny metal ring visible on the axle's end where its usually hidden behind the oil seal. if theres shiny metal visible, its not seated.

I'll give this a shot tomorrow maybe. I've been sick recently, so going outside sucks, even in this balmy NY winter we've been having. Also gonna pick up a cheap used axle that was pulled out of a documented SH. Hopefully I can document the differences.

my97lude · 02-21-2012, 11:43 PM

This Thread:

Quote:

Inboard joint play?

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

I've got a front end clunk on my 99 Prelude SH. I jacked it up and noticed there's quite a bit of play at the inboard CV joint, where it meets the ATTS unit.

(Insert Video Here)

Will replacing the driveshaft fix this? Or do I have bigger problems here?

EDIT: Can a base drive shaft be used on an SH? it looks like the base shaft is .5mm shorter?

Other thread posted:

Quote:

Help me diagnose my front end clunk?

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

First off, thanks for any suggestions you can give me. Hopefully this helps other folks too. I have a front end clunk that's driving me nuts. Here's the run down...

99 SH, 104k miles, 5spd. Stock suspension, wheels, everything.

The noise is predominantly on the left side and sounds like it's coming from the driver's foot well, or near there. It's a loud clunk, sounds like metal on metal. Sometimes I think I can hear it faintly from the passenger side, but not nearly as loud or bad

I park on a slight incline and I hear it every morning when I start to roll back. Similarly, I'll hear it sometimes when I start to move forward too. I can hear the sound when I hit sharp bumps or uneven terrain in the road, but not smooth undulating bumps. Sometimes I hear it when I'm taking a smooth corner and the car's weight shifts from one side to the other.

Doesn't seem to matter what gear I'm in. Doesn't matter if the clutch is engaged or not. Doesn't seem to be affected by temperature. I can't replicate the noise unless the car is moving.

Stuff I've replaced...
- Sway bar end links
- Sway bar bushings
- Driver's side motor mount (was collapsed)
- Driver's side CV axle.

Things I've checked...
If I jack the car up and wiggle the wheel, there doesn't appear to be play anywhere. Lower control arm bushings look fine. Radius rod bushings appear to be okay too. Ball joints appear to be okay as well. Front, left and right side motor mounts look fine. Can't tell whether the rear one is good or not. I don't really wanna take the effort to take it out unless I'm dropping a new one in. There is some play where the CV axle meets the ATTS unit (new CV axle didn't get rid of it) but I don't think that's the sound I'm hearing.

Ideas?

I'm just quoting the other thread you have up about this problem that gives more detail as to the "clunking" noise you have been hearing than the current thread does. This thread is getting more traffic, and is possibly closely related.
Every bit of info helps when you can't actually be there to see.

I think that at this point you are just trying to fix the play in your axle (?)

As you said yourself, you replaced it already with a brand new one and the noise is still there. Did the OLD shaft have this play?

Is the noise in the video the noise you are hearing when moving? (not really a clunk?)

I think you are possibly talking about 2 seperate issues now.
If the first shaft did NOT have the play you are experiencing now, but your new one DOES, the new one is either the wrong shaft or not seated properly. As DontBuyPrelude said: it should "click" into place when fully seated.
BTW, a bad cv shaft would have been clicking if bad due to the little pin bearings going bad, not clunking (unless you were somehow having catastrophic failure, but you should've been hearing some major clicking before that). So if it didn't have the play your new one does, and it wasn't clicking it was probably fine.

After you get the shaft properly seated, I'm pretty sure you will have to continue the hunt for your "clunk."

Always start with the easier and cheaper solutions... save some money and time.

Did you get a chance to check the spring all the way around the coil for any breaks or cracks yet? (you gotta jack it up and REALLY check and move the spring around a bit)
Like I said earlier, my car was not sagging, still handled great, it just kept making that gosh-awful "clunk" at all the exact same times you are describing.

If nothing else, and the spring is not your culprit, I just gave you a free bump to the top so someone else can give an idea or solution.

Good Luck and keep us updated.

bouckarooo · 02-22-2012, 01:54 AM

could it be shock knock?