Whoa. Clean them an rebuild them (i.e. replace the seals). With that much corrosion on the outside, I'd imagine the seals are roasted. The rebuild kit from Acura isn't very expensive.
If you have an air compressor, it's not very difficult to replace the seals.
You can try Naval Jelly to remove some of that rust, but make sure you paint them ASAP, or they'll rust again very quickly.
You're basically looking at the same list with the Legend calipers just that they come in a set. I can't imagine the rebuild kit was $9 per caliper. I'd also imagine that you really really want to clean up those pistons. If there's any rust around the seals you'll have to replace them since I don't know how long they've been dry.
Originally posted by irishpilot why do you need a compressor to change the seals
1. You need compressed air to press the pistons out of the caliper. You remove the bleed bolt and put the nozzle of a compressor blower in the bleed bolt hole. Put a piece of wood in the brake caliper opposite of the pistons (that's to stop the pistons), then slowly release the compressed air. The air will push the pistons out of the caliper body. It's the only way to remove the pistons without damaging them. Be aware that not using a piece of wood could turn the piston into an airborne projectile!
2. The dust seals fit extremely tight around the pistons. Since you can't put the pistons in dry (they must be lubricated with brake fluid), getting the piston through the dust boot is an extremely frustrating task. My fingers are not that small, and my patience not that great. So, I used an air compressor to fill the caliper body with compressed air. Then I'd press the piston against the dust boot. The air would cause the dust boot to expand (similar to a ballon) then the piston would slip right in.
Yes, I learned these tricks when I rebuilt the Legend GS calipers I bought for my Prelude.
Originally posted by TimeRacer $9 for the rebuild kit? Are you kidding me? These are the prices that I got for the NSX rebuild kit from A&H motor back in 2001.
You're basically looking at the same list with the Legend calipers just that they come in a set. I can't imagine the rebuild kit was $9 per caliper. I'd also imagine that you really really want to clean up those pistons. If there's any rust around the seals you'll have to replace them since I don't know how long they've been dry.
Yep, the Legend rebuilt kit is TONS cheaper than the NSX kit. I don't believe the kit includes the banjo bolts, though.
Here in Europe :-), 2 piston boots, 2 piston seals, 2 pin boots and 1 bolt seal all cost $9 :-))))). It's some aftermarket set, not Honda original.
BTW I have little rust in a groove for piston boots both on the piston and also on the caliper. What should I do with this? I scraped as much as I could, but not all. I assume I will give some grease on the piston boot that will seal it.
How are the surfaces of the piston that interface with the bore in the caliper? Also, how are the surfaces of the bore in the caliper? If both are good, I would say you're okay, but you need to get rid of that rust. Once it starts, it'll keep spreading until you get rid of it.
I'd put some Navel Jelly in the groove (only in the groove), then wait for it to dissolve the rust. You can agitate it some with a toothbrush. Once you're satisfied, wash it off with soap and water. If rust still remains, repeat. If not, clean all of the soap and water off and clean with brake parts cleaner. Once the brake parts cleaner dries (only a few seconds) immediate coat the entire piston (or piston bore in the caliper) with brake fluid (and ONLY brake fluid). Keep the surfaces wet, so that they do not rust anymore.
Originally posted by 71dsp How are the surfaces of the piston that interface with the bore in the caliper? Also, how are the surfaces of the bore in the caliper? If both are good, I would say you're okay, but you need to get rid of that rust. Once it starts, it'll keep spreading until you get rid of it.
I'd put some Navel Jelly in the groove (only in the groove), then wait for it to dissolve the rust. You can agitate it some with a toothbrush. Once you're satisfied, wash it off with soap and water. If rust still remains, repeat. If not, clean all of the soap and water off and clean with brake parts cleaner. Once the brake parts cleaner dries (only a few seconds) immediate coat the entire piston (or piston bore in the caliper) with brake fluid (and ONLY brake fluid). Keep the surfaces wet, so that they do not rust anymore.
Thank you for the info (and sorry for starting another thread, I didn't realize it).
The surfaces of the piston and bore look as new (interesting).
Do you grease the rubber parts when installing the piston? I don't know if I should grease it or not. Today I tried to install one piston (the bigger one) and the piston boot is *******. I simply couldn;t do it :-/.
Originally posted by petrveit The surfaces of the piston and bore look as new (interesting).
They should look new. The outer part of the piston (inside the dust boot) and the piston bore should look brand new, as they should never be exposed to the outside elements.
Quote:
Originally posted by petrveit Do you grease the rubber parts when installing the piston? I don't know if I should grease it or not. Today I tried to install one piston (the bigger one) and the piston boot is *******. I simply couldn;t do it :-/.
NO. The only thing that should be used to lubricate anything in the caliper assembly is brake fluid. Grease will contaminate the fluid.
The piston boots are VERY difficult to install, especially the small one. Use my hint above using an air compressor. The boots are much easier to get on that way.
So, I installed the calipers today. Everything fit perfect, but the brakes need one more bubble bleeding (or how do you call it), even if I made it already twice.
Originally posted by 71dsp You installed the calipers upside down, correct?
Yes, I didn't want to swap left to right, because of different piston sizes. Everything fits fine upside down, I just rotated it and used some wood while bleeding. I used metal from an old pad as a shim, one per caliper. I put the shim on the inner side of the caliper.
It looks there is still some air, when I first step on brakes, th pedal goes lower then second press.
If you still believe you have some air and the car is driveable you may just want to leave it alone for the time being since it might be in the ABS system. Which I've found only comes out (down to the caliper) after time from what I've noticed.
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