I have Brembo blanks rotors and I had many problems with them, as they looked as warped when hot. Probably a classic problem with steering wheel shaking when braking from high speeds.
So, now I have new rotors and pads ready on my table, why not to try what the Brembos can stand .
I tried 3 hard stops from 180-200kph (115-130mph) and what's the result? When I prepared the brakes for this test (get them little hot), the steering wheel shaked, so I thought that my steering wheel will fly out from my window when doing this test. BUT, when the brakes got really hot (red), there was NO shaking till the end of the test!! Even when the brakes cooled, the brakes seem to be fine now . The pads didn't have any fade during this test (Textar pads, probably not well known in the USA).
WTF is this? Why the brakes shaked when little-hot and didn't vibrate when red-hot? I simply don't understand it. Also, when the rotors can stand this abuse, I think that they can stand everything, so we don't need to worry about them in common traffic ? .
you dont have to wait 500 miles to break in rotors anymore
posted by: jc836
do a series of stops. 3 each from 40 to stopped gently using stop lights as a guide if possible. After the first 3 drive gently for a mile and repeat. Do this a third time and all should be good. Just do not brake hard for the first 50-100 miles and keep them from getting really hot during the breakin.
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-Anthony- PSN/Xbox Live GT: Evoking1230
2005 EVO VIII-SOLD/R.I.P.
2000 Honda Prelude SH - Gone But Not Forgotten
If you want to know why your steering wheel is shaking do a search on cementite because I won't go into the spiel again. The reason that your vibration occurs at moderate braking is because if the differential friction associated with cememtite. Remember, if your brake rotors were really warped, you'd have much worse vibration the harder you braked.
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97 EGP Base 5spd Prelude. Engine: DC short ram, DC SS headers, AEM pulleys, Random High flow cat, Mugen sport exhaust, Apexi VAFC. Suspension: Tein SS, Tanabe front lower tie, Neuspeed front upper strut, Neuspeed rear sway, Tanabe rear upper strut, DC rear lower tie, 17X7.5 5Zigen Typhoons with 215/40/17 Goodyear F1 GS-D3s. Other: Bride Ergo II, Spoon oil cap, Magnecor wires, relocated Odyssey 680 battery, Denso iridiums, Mugen pedals, Mugen lugnuts, shortened shifter w/ Momo airleather, Rotora slotted rotors and Endless NA-Y pads, Goodridge SS lines.
i had stock rotors and AEM brake pads, and after 3 runz mabe 0-110 back to 0... 3 times
my rotors were RED and it smoke was coming outta the rotors, smell liked nasty brake pads
it was horrible
Probably this red-color ;-) removed the cementite....and the rotors are fine again. I wouldn't ever imagine that any rotors could stand this kind of abuse. Is it normal for all the rotors to stand this and maybe more?
Originally posted by petrveit Probably this red-color ;-) removed the cementite....and the rotors are fine again. I wouldn't ever imagine that any rotors could stand this kind of abuse. Is it normal for all the rotors to stand this and maybe more?
I don't think you terribly abused your rotors. Granted we have passenger cars but look at how nascar rotors hold up. It is not uncommon to spot the red rotors since they are running 180+ mph and slowing down for some corners.
After reading all the "warp stories" I was soooo careful and light on my brakes. And even like this, the rotors looked warped (probably the cementite). So I was surprised that the rotors can handle this hard use - this was really far most hard braking I have ever made and after all the issues I thouyght the rotors will be gone after this test. Probably I don't need to be so worried about the rotors next time...
sparking isnt normal at all
he might have toasted his pads pretty bad or something cuz i know when i go track racing and i brake like that i never get anything
that is totally unsafe cuz what if u are stopping because a car flipped in front of you and they spilled gas on the floor....booom
Originally posted by TimeRacer Rubber pieces? From what? I can't see how the tire chunks would get there and I sure hope it's not your bushings or your brake lines... What rubber?
No, I thought all the rubber pieces on the caliper - piston dust boots, pin boots etc. (I don't know how you call it). Maybe the boots can't stand this heat?
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. The pads didn't have any fade during this test (Textar pads, probably not well known in the USA).
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