There's a type of metal on metal sound coming from the alternator area. As soon as I start the car I can hear it. It gets worse as the rpms go up.
I have noticed that when I turn on the A/C the noise will go down significantly although it is still there. This is making me lean toward the A/C Compressor Pulley going bad. But I'm also thinking it could possible be the alternator and/or pulley. I'm not exactly sure what to check....could it be the alternator itself or the A/C compressor itself? Not sure if I should just start swapping out pulleys or what. The car has about 157k miles on it and have never had this happen before.
FYI.....I did change the crank pulley on it about 2 months ago after if just crapped out on me and both belts eventually fell off while driving. There was no engine damage alteast......I was driving very slow and taking it extremely easy because I knew it was bad.
Sounds like the a/c clutch idler bearing going bad, my 4th gen's got so bad i couldent go to a drive through because the noise would drown me out on their head sets. To test this take the belt off and spin the pully by hand, if its the a/c it will still make the noise. Mine would go away if the a/c was engaged, i ended up getting a shorter belt untill i could get my compressor rebuilt.
Another vote for the a/c compressor... Get it fixed ASAP or bypass it, otherwise you can cause some serious damage to the compressor and will require a new one.
Thanks for the posts guys. I went to Autozone and picked up a belt.......I've got a h23 and figured the Alt. belt w/o A/C would be just what I need....I've been turning the adjusting screw on the alternator for atleast a half hour now and it's not doing much at all.......there's still about an inch or two of slack left before it will tighten.
Am I missing something here, or is there a belt from another engine that you know of that will also work for this?
I just went through some of this today. my A/C compressor was squealing so I went to find the correct belt to bypass it. After a few tries it seems 380K5 is the correct size for the H23A1 to run the alternator alone.
Tools: Rachet
10mm Long Socket or wrench
12mm Long Socket "
14mm Short Socket "
You first have to remove the Power steering belt.
• Loosen the mounting nuts on the right side with a 12mm socket or wrench of the P/S pump; on is right on top of the pulley and one is underneath.
• Use a 10mm socket/wrench and loosen the adjustment bolt facing you.
•Push P/S pump down to remove tension and remove the belt.
Now for the alternator.
• Loosen the mounting nuts with 14mm Socket or wrench. They are in similar locations as the PS Pump
If you look at the alternator, the adjustment bolts are located in front of the alternator more towards the radiator.
•Loosen the left bolt with 10mm, this bolt just tightens your adjustment
•Turn the left 10mm bolt i think CCW, this will loosen the belt. You may need to push the alternator down and towards the engine to loosen the belt.
Just pull off the belt.
Just reassemble doing the reverse. Just remember not to tighten the mounting bolts for both the PS pump and the alternator until you have adjusted the tension for both of the belts via adjustment bolts.
Should take maybe a 1/2 hour for you if everything goes smooth.
Thanks......I actually picked up the wrong belt.....I found the correct belt size in this thread at post #15 and it worked like a charm. The belt size is 380K5 to bypass the A/C on H23.
I've actually only just learned how to change the belts, and the reason I had to bypass this in my case was because the air compressor already had gone out. The pully wasn't moving at all, so my first belt went out on the freeway, burnt down to a pile of melted, shredded rubber on the static pully. When I replaced the whole belt not understanding that the pully not moving was a bad thing it almost did to the replacement what happened on the freeway.
Anyway so yeah my compressor is already screwed. However changing the belts intrigued me and now I'm impelled to learn more about my engine... or something
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