FULL major tune up > need input/comments/answers - Honda Prelude Forum

rkonfire · 11-29-2003, 04:48 AM

Alright guys, my car is an automatic 94 Si (H23A1) with a 118,000 miles and DESPERATELY in need of the tune up. I have done hours of research on WHAT should be done for the major tune up (that should be done at 90k miles). So here is the list that I came up with and hopefully you guys can add/edit/comment on the different parts. Take into consideration which of these things MUST be done since they're ACCESSIBLE because of the area they're located (i.e., what SHOULD be done because they've got everything open for the timing belt/water pump)

-My MUST list:
1. Timing Belt
2. Water Pump
3. Balancer Belt and its 2 seals and tensioners (how many tensioners are there on the balancer?)
4. Cam seals (4 of them, right?)
5. Fuel filter
6. All belts and hoses (how many belts are there and hoses?)

-Not so sure about/confused/necessary? list:
1. Crankshaft seals (how many and is this important?)
2. Valve Cover Gasket (important or not?)
3. Harmonic Balancer (what in the world is this? Important?)
4. PCV valve (what is this? Important?)
5. CV boots (what is this? Important?)
6. Manual Tensioner (is there just one? is this the balacer tenioner(s) beforementioned in my MUST list? Remember, I have the H23A1 engine)
7. Head Gasket (important?)
8. Clean the injection system (important?)
9. Oil Seals (How many are there? important?)

Okay, now that you're exhausted, haha, can they do a Valve Adjustment during all of this? If not, should I do that before or after the new major tune up? Any informative information on what I have posted would be wonderful! Who knows, I may have even left something out that's very important. Thanks for all your time.

jc836 · 11-29-2003, 06:04 AM

You really do not have to replace any of the seals relating to the crankshaft itself. Check the oil pan gasket and see if it is leaking around the bolts and flange-if so replace it and use Hondabond where needed according to the shop manual. Avery good idea is to clean the injectors. You do not need to worry about the Head Gasket, Harmonic Balancer and oil seals. The balancer is on the end of the crankshaft and is not a serivce part. DO change out the fuel filter and PCV valve.
You can check the condition of the CV boot and add Honda grease. Make sure that the retaining ring is properly crimped-or have a dealer do this one for you. The Valve cover gasket set can be replaced while you do a valve adjustmnet-they do get brittle after a period of time.
You are replacing the water pump along with the Timing belt-so flush out the cooling system and refill using the Honda pre-mixed coolant. There are other brands, but Honda has a formula that works with the metals in their motors. The Tensioners might as well be done if they are under the Timing cover-adjustment of the manual type can be tricky for some people.
The "Tuneup" should also include factory a new Cap, Rotor and plug wires along with a set of new plugs. Some Honda techs will tell you to leave the old wires in-I do not feel comfy with that and replace mine with either factory or NGK Blue wires. As to hoses and drive belts-that is your call. I would change the belts since they are off anyway. This is something that should be done about every 4 years on average. Hoses-my CRX ones appear original to the car but will be changed out with Honda parts.
I am recommending Honda parts versus aftermarket only because they have a proven history of reliability.
Be sure to take your time adjusting the valves. Doing the TIming belt is time consuming but not real difficult. I had the dealer do mine in part to learn.
Happy HOlidays

rkonfire · 11-29-2003, 06:24 AM

Thanks for the reply man. I have already done the rotor/plugs/wires/cap that's why I didn't include it. Also, I plan on taking it to a dealer to do except for some things that my friends can help me with. So yeah, the main things will be done by the dealer.

justanotherlude · 11-29-2003, 10:11 AM

Maybe do a valve adjustment while your at it? Also clean the IAC Valve

lightlude · 11-29-2003, 04:08 PM

At the risk of being somewhat contrary to jc836, I will add what I know.

1. Since you already have the timing belt and all those related items off, you should replace every seal on that side. There should be 2 camshaft seals and a seal around the crank shaft. They're cheap, easy to replace, and they will afford you some peace of mind, because if they do fail, and start to leak oil everywhere, then that can cause premature T.B. failure.
Basically, just make sure nothing is leaking (it fairly easy to tell, as there will be dirty streaks coming from the offending part) and if it is, fix it. It's just that much easier with the belt already off.

2. DO NOT bother cleaning your injectors. You're just wasting money. Think: Gas is one of the best detergents out there. Why would something that is regularly bathed in it need to be cleaned? Don't believe me? Go look inside your fuel rail. It'll be cleaner than the day it was milled. So will your injectors, except for the plastic parts, but they're not a problem. What a good "injector" cleaner should really do is clean the back of your valves, as the gas and oil is burned on them, and it can get kinda crusty on their backs. Save yourself the time and trouble, and just leave the fuel rail together (unless you don't beleive me, and need to go check

)

3. I'd recommend doing the lower radiator hose now, as it is easier to do with everything apart. Other wise it is a royal pain.

4. Check your headgasket while you have it all apart. Make sure there are no major leaks or anything. You would probably notice something wrong if you did have a bad head gasket, but it doesn't hurt to check. And since you have it off....

So...
I hope it goes well! You'll learn alot about your car once you do it, and it always feels to good to do it yourself.

yohan420 · 11-30-2003, 11:52 AM

this is a wicked post ... lots of info ...
whats the prep work involved for doing all this if a person wanted to do it themself?? drain all the oil and then go at her?

rkonfire · 11-30-2003, 04:07 PM

Lightlude, I thought there were 4 cam seals total? So you're saying there are 2 total and 1 crankshaft seal?

Justnotherlude, IAC valve? Can you elaborate?

99_SH · 11-30-2003, 05:53 PM

Most people only change the rear two cam seals(on the distributor side). The one on the timing belt side is hard to get to, which requires removing the camgears to access the seals. You'll also need a pick to get them out as they're stuck in there pretty hard.

The front crank seal I tried replacing, but it was too tight in there so I never bother changing. anyone have any tips on how to remove the old seal?

Artifex · 12-01-2003, 02:35 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by rkonfire
Alright guys, my car is an automatic 94 Si (H23A1) with a 118,000 miles and DESPERATELY in need of the tune up. I have done hours of research on WHAT should be done for the major tune up (that should be done at 90k miles). So here is the list that I came up with and hopefully you guys can add/edit/comment on the different parts. Take into consideration which of these things MUST be done since they're ACCESSIBLE because of the area they're located (i.e., what SHOULD be done because they've got everything open for the timing belt/water pump)

-My MUST list:
1. Timing Belt
2. Water Pump
3. Balancer Belt and its 2 seals and tensioners (how many tensioners are there on the balancer?)
4. Cam seals (4 of them, right?)
5. Fuel filter
6. All belts and hoses (how many belts are there and hoses?)

-Not so sure about/confused/necessary? list:
1. Crankshaft seals (how many and is this important?)
2. Valve Cover Gasket (important or not?)
3. Harmonic Balancer (what in the world is this? Important?)
4. PCV valve (what is this? Important?)
5. CV boots (what is this? Important?)
6. Manual Tensioner (is there just one? is this the balacer tenioner(s) beforementioned in my MUST list? Remember, I have the H23A1 engine)
7. Head Gasket (important?)
8. Clean the injection system (important?)
9. Oil Seals (How many are there? important?)

Okay, now that you're exhausted, haha, can they do a Valve Adjustment during all of this? If not, should I do that before or after the new major tune up? Any informative information on what I have posted would be wonderful! Who knows, I may have even left something out that's very important. Thanks for all your time.

You also want to consider doing:[list=1][*]Cap+rotor[*]Spark wires (yes they wear out)[*]spark plugs[*]coolant flush[*]brake bleed[*]clutch bleed[*]brake pads (check them)[*]Lube up hinges and latches (doors, trunk)[*]Check weather stripping around windows (can be replaced)[*]O2 sensors. Probably should just replace them outright.[*]Check suspension bushings (difficult). Bushings can be replaced, but stay away from Polyurethane. Tons of reasons why (take my word for it).[*]Check shocks (difficult). 100+k on stock shocks may tend to wear them a bit. There are some simple tests for this, but the best way is to take off the coilovers completely, remove the springs, and check their travel.[/list=1]

You may also need a new cat in order to pass emissions. I don't know how the Prelude catalysts wear, but I see some possibility of ineffectiveness after 100+ miles. Your emissions will tell.