Carbon Fiber is a good idea for the lack of heat conductivity.
The question is whether or not they knew what they were doing when they designed it. It's very easy to hurt performance if things like these have not been designed properly. The Skunk2 intake has been tested and spent months, if not years in R&D. That's the proper way to design an intake.
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97 EGP Base 5spd Prelude. Engine: DC short ram, DC SS headers, AEM pulleys, Random High flow cat, Mugen sport exhaust, Apexi VAFC. Suspension: Tein SS, Tanabe front lower tie, Neuspeed front upper strut, Neuspeed rear sway, Tanabe rear upper strut, DC rear lower tie, 17X7.5 5Zigen Typhoons with 215/40/17 Goodyear F1 GS-D3s. Other: Bride Ergo II, Spoon oil cap, Magnecor wires, relocated Odyssey 680 battery, Denso iridiums, Mugen pedals, Mugen lugnuts, shortened shifter w/ Momo airleather, Rotora slotted rotors and Endless NA-Y pads, Goodridge SS lines.
Originally posted by fmshaw1971 The question is whether or not they knew what they were doing when they designed it. It's very easy to hurt performance if things like these have not been designed properly. The Skunk2 intake has been tested and spent months, if not years in R&D. That's the proper way to design an intake.
Nope, not at all which is why I prefaced my remark by saying that I hope they did the proper R&D on it before producing it.
There are many companies that slap something together out of carbon fiber and everyone assumes it's better. Not at all. This looks like a quality intake, but you never know. That's all I'm saying.
For instance, I just looked at the Weapon R site at their ram air intake system. It's a joke! They attach the ram air portion to the SRI intake filter with a damned dryer hose. Dryer hoses have huge hills and valleys where the plastic stretches over the metal skeleton. When air passes over that, it forms little vortices in every valley. That's horrible for airflow, but the jokers who designed it didn't know or care. I wouldn't be surprised if it actually hurt your performance.
My point is, you can't just slap something together and hope it will improve performance. You need to hire a team of nerds with sliderules to calculate everything for months. If the designers of that intake measured every possible runner length for top performance and flow characteristics then it's a good piece.
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97 EGP Base 5spd Prelude. Engine: DC short ram, DC SS headers, AEM pulleys, Random High flow cat, Mugen sport exhaust, Apexi VAFC. Suspension: Tein SS, Tanabe front lower tie, Neuspeed front upper strut, Neuspeed rear sway, Tanabe rear upper strut, DC rear lower tie, 17X7.5 5Zigen Typhoons with 215/40/17 Goodyear F1 GS-D3s. Other: Bride Ergo II, Spoon oil cap, Magnecor wires, relocated Odyssey 680 battery, Denso iridiums, Mugen pedals, Mugen lugnuts, shortened shifter w/ Momo airleather, Rotora slotted rotors and Endless NA-Y pads, Goodridge SS lines.
Originally posted by fmshaw1971 For instance, I just looked at the Weapon R site at their ram air intake system. It's a joke! They attach the ram air portion to the SRI intake filter with a damned dryer hose. Dryer hoses have huge hills and valleys where the plastic stretches over the metal skeleton. When air passes over that, it forms little vortices in every valley. That's horrible for airflow, but the jokers who designed it didn't know or care. I wouldn't be surprised if it actually hurt your performance.
My point is, you can't just slap something together and hope it will improve performance. You need to hire a team of nerds with sliderules to calculate everything for months. If the designers of that intake measured every possible runner length for top performance and flow characteristics then it's a good piece.
In all actuallity that intake should work quite well. While the drier tubing might create some turbulance, the fact that air is being rammed into it is a huge benefit. Drier tubing works great for intake systems (and has been used for many years in drag racing applications) since it is very flexable, allowing you to place it wherever you not (not just where it fits). I can't really think of another material that is available that is flexible in such a matter while retaining a basic tube shape.
I can't really think of another material that is available that is flexible in such a matter while retaining a basic tube shape.
It's simple, they have to make a prefab plastic tube with minimal bends. Yes, it makes it more expensive because they have to do custom applications, but that is still the proper way to design it. Look how many bends the stock intake has, but at least they are smoothe. All turbos and intercoolers use smoothe tubes because the designers knew the importance of proper air flow.
I'm not flaming you, but Weapon R for taking the cheap road. I would expect to see something like that on Ebay, but not from a company that deals almost entirely with intakes.
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97 EGP Base 5spd Prelude. Engine: DC short ram, DC SS headers, AEM pulleys, Random High flow cat, Mugen sport exhaust, Apexi VAFC. Suspension: Tein SS, Tanabe front lower tie, Neuspeed front upper strut, Neuspeed rear sway, Tanabe rear upper strut, DC rear lower tie, 17X7.5 5Zigen Typhoons with 215/40/17 Goodyear F1 GS-D3s. Other: Bride Ergo II, Spoon oil cap, Magnecor wires, relocated Odyssey 680 battery, Denso iridiums, Mugen pedals, Mugen lugnuts, shortened shifter w/ Momo airleather, Rotora slotted rotors and Endless NA-Y pads, Goodridge SS lines.
That's a beautiful intake manifold, but isn't that almost the price of ITB's?
On a side note, Do they even make ITB's for H22's or is that a B series only goodie? Nothing sounds as good imho, but the lack of air filtration isn't cool.
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Originally posted by NotoriouSH That's a beautiful intake manifold, but isn't that almost the price of ITB's?
On a side note, Do they even make ITB's for H22's or is that a B series only goodie? Nothing sounds as good imho, but the lack of air filtration isn't cool.
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wow that is a crazy price, you had better get MAD gains if you were dropping that kinda cash,
and like it was stated before, it will prolly take forever to even come out.....but hey! its just giving us more time to save our pennies so we can buy it hehe
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A guy on honda-tech tested it. It was a turbo b16, but he gained around 50hp for about 2500RPMs and his peak hp was up by 23. It had big gains all over the rev range.
Originally posted by alphajesse A guy on honda-tech tested it. It was a turbo b16, but he gained around 50hp for about 2500RPMs and his peak hp was up by 23. It had big gains all over the rev range.
There are numerous "problems" with running these on street cars. These are my observations, as I don't own a set of ITBs, but maybe one day I will.
If you try to idle the engine around the stock idle point, the idle is very unsteady and erratic. For a smooth idle, the engine really needs to idle around 2k RPMs.
Usually ITBs will really hurt the low end, although some tuners have shown the the low end loss can be quite minimal without hurting the top end much.
ITBs are made for top end power, which is usually not best for a street driven car.
There are no provisions for the EGR system, so in some states that will cause the car to become non-street legal.
There are no provisions for vacuum fittings on the TWM kits. You have to tap into the individual runners and install a vacuum log to run all vacuum accessories.
Running ITBs with a stock ECU is next to impossible. It can be done, but I do not know the particulars. A stand alone ECU is by far a better idea because the ITBs drastically alter the breathing of the engine.
Filters are available. Either individual filters for each TB, or you can buy a log manifold and use one filter.
Yes. It's funny. Cause it's an Endyn product, an IB guy came into the thread and started bashing it. "Only 23 hp gain" and the like. He conveniently ignores the huge gains EVERYWHERE, most of which are greater than 25 whp!
I just got an email from them saying it's in development for the H, K, and F series engines. They quoted me about 1500 for the H22.
They are saying in comparison with the Edelbrock, same set-up, same engine it ranged from 23whp to about 60whp....dyno proven. I have the dyno somewhere on my computer.
I dunno, I have learned to not hold my breath on any of this stuff.
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And if I remember correctly, it still needs custom work to mount the fuel rail, IAC, etc.
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