Out of the blue it started getting hard to put in gear, now tonite it was extreeeeeeeemely hard, I almost thought I was gonna have to leave my car and walk. It is like this going into first and reverse, once i get moving sometimes I can get back first after stopping *almost* easily.
Does it do it with the engine off, too? If it's harder than normal to run through the gears with the engine off, it's the tranny. More than likely damaged synchros, gears, or forks.
If it's OK when the motor is off it is likely the clutch fluid or master/slave cyls. When they get old or the fluid runs out the clutch will not fully disengage making it hard to shift. In this case on level ground you might find it slower starting and the car might even move if it is started in gear with the parking brake off (while clutching).
Check the clutch fluid, then have someone check the slave cylinder on the tranny while you are clutching. You should have about 1" of travel and it should stay put while you hold the pedal in. If the slave loses travel with the clutch pedal held in, you have a master or slave leak. Replace them both.
I will head out and check out when it does that. I did notice my clutch was slipping really bad last time I sprayed, and since then this has started, but I guess this isnt related?
I guess i will have to put it in the shop
Also, it could be your pressure plate. That exact same thing happened in my car: Couldn't put the car in gear while it was on. Had it towed to the mechanic, the pressure plate (which had ~150k on it) had broken several leafs, so I wasn't disengaging the clutch when i pushed the pedal.
I would check the cylinders first though, cause they're easier/cheaper to replace.
master and slave were leaking a little had them both redone $300 out the door still the probnlem was there replaced the ATTS fluid that helped a bunch also did the tranny fluid we put mobil one which I am learing is a no no and will change that soon. It ended up being the pressure plate and the disc one of the springs actually pooped out and was banging around inside and was making a mess of stuff also explained why the clutch pedal would seize and not go down...my guess is the pressure plate get a exedy stage one and throw in the fly wheel ( fandanza )while your there.
$1500 for the whole deal labor parts shipping and all... master, slave, flywheel and all the clutch stuff
If you want to break the car...
put it in gear, then start.. and shift w/o clutching.
You could at least get it to the mechanic but ... she's a ***** to do and if there's stop n go's you'll possibly break the clutch arm and it could rattle around and messup the internal bellhousing of the transmission etc.
Definately if the clutch pedal is limp its time for a new clutch, I would think ...
It's just like beelding the brakes. you need to have two people to do it. one to pump the down the clutch pedal and the other to open and close the bleed valve.
1. connect a hose over the valve. that way you can see if you have any air bubbles when your bleeding. Stop when there are no signs of air.
2. Ask the someone to press down on the clutch and hold it.
3. at this time you open the bleed valve
4. now close the valve and ask the person to let go down the clutch and repeat from step 2.
Make sure that the clutch reservior stays full with brake fluid to avoid air. Pedal pressure should return after a couple of bleeds.
Did you just fill the reservoir without bleeding it?? If so then you wouldn't get any pressure back because you would have sucked air into the hydraulics and air compresses So follow Jakes instructions, but most likely you will have to replace one of your cylinders. Slave is off the tranny and the master is behind your firewall. go under your dash and look at where your clutch pedal goes through the wall - if their is fluid there than you need a new master cylinder. IT's not very expensive so I'd replace it - otherwise you'll just end up getting stuck somewhere else.
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