Does anyone know if there is any truth to what this page says? The page looks a bit cheesy...but I'm curious about what they say about a hard break-in being better than an easy one.
I know the article is about bike motors, but the principle should be the same, no? Oh, and I know we've discussed break-in before, I've searched on this
Well, in the winter on new sled motors we usually run them a few miles (maybe 5 or so) to get the belt broke in and make sure nothing is going to unload. Then after that we ride them normally. Some guys pack snow on the cylinders in order to harden them, but each is to their own. I think when breaking in an engine run it calm for a while so you get some heat and everything is working. Then just vary your rpms and not stay constant (no this doesn't mean drive around constantly shifting from 5 to 3 to 5 to 1st (uhh... mis shift). I don't think the end result of any break in method varies much, but it is rather your method that you choose.
That's a crock of ****. Know why? That second piston in the picture is brand new- there is NO way in hell a piston would look like that after having more than 2 seconds on it in a motor.
Follow the procedure in the manual. Don't believe everything you read on the 'net.
Originally posted by marcucci That's a crock of ****. Know why? That second piston in the picture is brand new- there is NO way in hell a piston would look like that after having more than 2 seconds on it in a motor.
Follow the procedure in the manual. Don't believe everything you read on the 'net.
Sure. His intentions are right- proper seating of the rings- but I don't think that you will "properly" break in a motor using his methodology. I would discount anything he would say simply from his piston pictures.
There only reason you should "take it easy" during the break in is to prevent anything catastrophic from happening (as he refers to the mfr. covering their ass) and to prevent premature contamination of the oil. As the rings are not seated initially, the oil quickly becomes full of combustion blow-by.
IMHO the Honda procedure isn't "right" either- I prefer to do a change within 1000-3000 miles with conventional oil and a good filter, then another between 3000 and 6000. I wouldn't switch to synthetic before that.
I've taken a motor with 250 miles on it before and raced it with no ill effects (short or long term). It's imperative that you change the oil, though, after something like that, or at least the filter (and check oil level, as it will be burning some).
IMHO the Honda procedure isn't "right" either- I prefer to do a change within 1000-3000 miles with conventional oil and a good filter, then another between 3000 and 6000. I wouldn't switch to conventional before that.
i think marcucci means synthetic in the last line hehe
btw what is a marcucci?
hax0r is hacker in hacker speak hehe and i drive so a honda so
hondahax0r..actually i would not be a real hondhax0r until i do full ecu work.. dirtylude is kind of a hondahaxor hell i could not imagine doing all the work he has done with his preludes engine managment!!!
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