RexRod

Hello good people.

I'm having a problem getting the center balance shaft bearings out of my H22 block. I made a tool to remove the bearings for each size, similar to what you would use on the cam bearings on a small block chevy. The other bearings tap out just fine, but the two center ones will not budge.

I made a second tool after the first one failed out of a piece of 1" all thread to try and "press" them out, but they still will not budge.

I'm getting frustrated, so any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Just for your info:

The motor is fully assembled, hanging from the crane, so I am trying to keep things as clean on this as I can.

I also have a full machine/fab shop here at home, so making tools is simple to do in my space.

Thoughts?

David

 

RexRod

I GOT IT!!

I still can't believe those bearings need to be that tight. Anyway, what I did is put a couple of cheater bars on the wrenches I was using on my 1" inch all-thread puller, tightened it down good, then got behind it with a 1.25" inch diameter by 4 foot long piece of solid steel and gave it a good whack from the back. You could hear the bearing give way as it cracked it's seal. Then it tapped out like the rest.

I have to admit, this whole thing really scared me. I thought for sure I was going to break something.

Take care,

David

remy525

very good... you know you have to post pics up now, right?

RexRod

I have the motor back on the engine stand, but I will take some pictures today of the puller I made and post later this evening.

David

RexRod

Ok, here are your pictures and how I got those pesky bearings out.

First I made a simple tool similar to what you use to get the cam bearings out of an american V-8. It's simply a stepped bushing insert that can fit on the end of a driving rod. There are four different sizes of balance shaft bearings, so I made four different size of stepped bushings:


The bearing stepped bushings (or whatever you want to call them) slip onto the end of the driving rod:


At first, I just put the stepped bushing into the back of the balance shaft bearing, inserted the drive rod, and tapped the bearings out from the openings behind of the block. That all worked out well until I got to the two center bearings (one front, one rear). They would not budge.

So I made a modification to my bearing tool, and instead of using a driving rod, I used a piece of 1" inch all-thread so I could "pull" the bearing out from the front of the engine. The first thing I did is tap the stepped bushing:


Also, before I get farther, you can see the small hole drilled into the side of the stepped bushing. That's so I can hold the bushing on the end of a piece of tig rod to get it up into the block and into position. Just something that worked.

The stepped bushing on the end of a balance shaft bearing:


Yes, I have a missing finger.

Here is a shot of the puller assembled with a bearing on the end:


The all thread is inserted into the end of the stepped bushing that is placed into the bearing, and it extends past the front of the engine where I can pull on it with a big 1" inch nut and special washers I made as well:


If I was smart, I would have used a fine thread piece of all-thread for more mechanical force (but the course thread was what I had laying in the bin). Then when I tightened the nut up front, the bearing would have pulled out of the block without needing to also get behind with a long heavy bar and tap it.

I do not recommend this kind of stuff to just anyone. It's still a fair amount of work.

Thanks and take care,

David

G_Loc

Wow, great fabrication skills!

Why did you remove the balance shafts and bearings though? Weight savings?

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RexRod

I'm trying to do the "poor mans" balance shaft delete. There is a really great outfit called (KAIZENSPEED) that makes a balance shaft delete kit. The only problem with their kit for me is you need to have the motor completely disassembled to install it.

So I am doing the poor mans delete by removing the balance shaft bearings, grinding off the locating tab, then re-installing the bearings rotated to cover the oil holes. I will also be making a small plug for the front oil cover, a couple of large plugs for the openings where the balance shafts used to protrude the oil cover, and a plate cover to block where the gear set used to be.

I estimate about 10 or 12 pounds weight savings, and they say it's good for a horse or two, or three.

My main motivation is weight loss. I have a goal to drop 25 to 35 pounds from the H22. I plan on making a custom intake manifold, oil pan, and billet aluminum mounts as well. All part of the diet. And no, this engine in not going into a Prelude. (I am ducking now!!)

I joined this list because it has a great reputation for having people on it who really know the H22. This is the first time I have worked with this engine. So far, I really like it. By far the best bang for the buck. I could be wrong, but it seems to me the most torque and horsepower per dollar than any other Honda engine, stock that is.

If you're interested, I can continue the thread with pictures of my progress of my balance shaft delete.

Take care,

David

G_Loc

Keep us updated! Your method sounds interesting

What car are you dropping the engine into?

__________________
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My life, one day at a time

remy525

ey, it looks like you do good work.. nice to have a new member contributing to the site, not just mooching off its newfound freeness

RexRod

I am almost reluctant to say. I know this is a Prelude site, but like I said before, there are some really smart people here who know the H22 inside and out!

The car is an 84 Honda CRX. It's my wifes car. I chose the H because of the great value it has. More power and torque per dollar than any other engine I could find. I wanted to keep the car all Honda, all stock (well, mostly, I plan to do some tuning) and as reliable as possible. So no boost or laughing gas, just three times the HP than the stock motor for the car.

Like I said before, I plan on making my own aluminum oil pan (with trap doors), a new valve cover (man that stock one is a monster!), and a new aluminum intake manifold (the stock one is like 30 pounds). All for weight loss. It should help correct some of the handling problems I'll introduce to the car with so much more weight up front. My goal is 200 wheel horses in a car that weighs about 1,900 pounds. I think it'll be fun as hell to drive.

Thanks. I hope I don't piss off too many because my specific project is off-topic for this forum. The parts I make for the engine should be fun for others to see.

Thanks and take care,

David