What does a failing auto tensioner sound like? The previous owner had my autotensioner replaced at 58k because of a "strange sound around 2,000 rpm". I am now at 102k and I am hearing a strange growling sound around 2-3k and on deceleration. When I push in the clutch and let the rpm's drop (like when I'm stopping) I hear it the most. The timing belt should be good for at least 40k so I don't want to replace everything if it can be avoided. Is this what a bad tensioner sounds like? What are the consequences of ignoring it? As long as I have a decent load on the engine I never hear anything, it's only on light load/engine decel. Could it be something else altogether like a power steering belt?
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I have the same question. I had the timing belt and water pump replaced already, though they did not replace the auto tensioner. Shortly after the replacement, I started hearing an odd vibration/rattling coming from that area upon deceleration. I can reliably reproduce it by getting up to about 3500rpm in 2nd gear and slowly decel - the noise starts around 3000rpm and continues until about 2600rpm.
I've taken it back to the dealership that did the timing belt service twice and they keep telling me that there is no issue and that it is the normal sound of decelerating. I don't buy this, and I would like to know if there is a way to check to see if it is the auto tensioner or not.
I don't want the thing to give out and potentially leave me with a bunch of bent valves. Can anyone help?
i know exactly what you're talking about, i have this as well. i've read some threads about the auto tensioner "growl" and that is definitly what i have. i'm at 92k and to my knowledge the previous owner did not have any timing belt/tensioner service performed, so i am most definitly in need of a new tensioner.
I had a very similar problem in my 99 base. It was a rattling type strange sound from the same area as the auto tensioner which only came up at low rpm or when coasting. Mine turned out to be a water pump.
Just a note: if you have mods on your motor (especially cams or higher comp. ratio) then the auto tensioner is more likely to fail.
I have the same noise, and I replaced the autotensioner several years ago, at 24k. I recently took the car to the dealer twice and the first time they found a problem with the balancer belt, asked me about my revs, but replaced it anyway under extended warrantee. That didn't fix it so The second time they said they couldn't hear the sound. Sure.
It might indeed be the water pump. How could we make sure, short of replacing it?
Unfortunately there is no positive way (that I know of) to detect exactly which problem you have. It may actually require disassembly. My water pump, although chattery, still was functioning adequately. Apparently they can make a fair amount of noise for a good while before actually quitting on you. When I took my car in the shop did a diagnosis, replacement of water pump, timing belt, and balancer belt for about $500. I think I got a fairly good deal on this as well.
Sorry to be the bearer of bad news. If it helps clarify at all, my noise sounded more like a rattling piece of metal which I at first thought was an exhaust issue. Upon further inspection the noise seemed to be coming from the valve cover.
I had the same exact problem. It was a flapping/growling noise between 1.5k ahd 2.5k RPMs. The autotensioner noise is exactly that.
I had an extended warranty (5yr/100k) and took the Tensioner TSB to Honda and they replaced the timing belt and tensioner free-of-charge. Give me your email address and I'd be happy to email it to you.
__________________ Medium Scott - XBox GT: derech0 - 2005 PPW Track Model: 52k Miles - Purchased 6.16.2005 (Hibernating)
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I had the same exact problem. It was a flapping/growling noise between 1.5k ahd 2.5k RPMs. The autotensioner noise is exactly that.
I had an extended warranty (5yr/100k) and took the Tensioner TSB to Honda and they replaced the timing belt and tensioner free-of-charge. Give me your email address and I'd be happy to email it to you.
The second time I went back, I actually handed them the auto tensioner TSB as well and they still came back and said it was "normal," though I really appreciate the offer. I have a feeling that they aren't going to diagnose any problems with it since they would likely end up having to replace the auto tensioner for free. Maybe I will just take it to another dealership to get them to diagnose the problem and then call Honda of America
My water pump was also replaced when the tensioner and belt were changed. The funny thing is after I started this thread the noise stopped, so thanks PO for fixing my tensioner
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h22bb6, are you saying you got them to replace the autotensioner a second time?
I've had mine replaced once, and they seem to think that that takes care of the problem forever.
No, they only replaced it once, the one time I had the problem, which started around 70k miles. They did the auto-tensioner and timing belt under warranty (parts/labor). I had them also do the water pump while they were at it and some other assorted stuff.
I have seen people who have had to replace it again after getting it replaced once, but it was at least a few thousand miles later.
__________________ Medium Scott - XBox GT: derech0 - 2005 PPW Track Model: 52k Miles - Purchased 6.16.2005 (Hibernating)
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I've had A flapping noise before, turned out to be the auto tensioner. I would suggest checking your timing belt for some play. Mine was able to move around about an inch, luckily I got to the mechanic before it totally failed. Second time I wasn't so lucky, tensioner failed, belt slipped, and now I have some bent valves. I'm now doing the manual tensioner swap, these auto tensioners suck.
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Turns out my tensioner is bad, the problem came back and I listened to it closely under the hood.. It makes a growl and then I can hear the belt making a little bit of a loose flapping sound until the tensioner slowly takes up the slack.
I'm doing a search for info, I plan on trying to fix it myself unless you guys know from experience that it's too hard. My timing belt doesn't need replacing, can I just fix the tensioner and call it a day? Is it easier to install another autotensioner or is the manual conversion just as simple?
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You can just replace the tensioner, however its not suggested. As you will have to go through a signifigant amount of work to change the tensioner. Of which, you removed the tbelt,ud belts etc. You might as well change them while you're in there. So you wont have to be pissed at changing it in 40K miles.
But if you dont mind the extra work, then by all means. Your ride, your choice.
I would change the T-belt as well. Chances are, with it not properly tensioned, it has improper wear and could snap prematurely. A t-belt only costs $15 or so anyway.
An additional $15 for peace of mind = priceless.
__________________ Medium Scott - XBox GT: derech0 - 2005 PPW Track Model: 52k Miles - Purchased 6.16.2005 (Hibernating)
Mods: Falken|JWT|Kenwood|MotorDyne|Nismo|Sparco|UR|Work Emotion Tracks run: Beaver Run (PA), Gateway Int'l (MO), Talladega Grand Prix (AL), Nelson-Ledges (OH)
I'll definately do the belt since it needs to be removed anyway, as for the water pump I might pass on that unless you guys think they do fail quite often? I'm going to do the manual tensioner conversion myself and all my parts are already on order.
Where is the opening that allows me to see the markings on the flywheel to find TDC for the crankshaft? I heard sticking a screwdriver inbetween the flywheel teeth is a good way to keep the crank in place while removing the crank pulley.
Does anyone have the collectiveracing conversion guide? The website is down.
Thanks for the help!
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Last edited by NotoriouSH : 07-07-2005 at 12:37 PM.
Best way to diagnose should be to take off the valve cover and see if there is slack in the belt or if you can cause slack by pulling on it. Also, look down into the TB cover plastic and see if there is a cut in the plastic. If it is really whipping around then you should see slap marks about as wide as the things is loose under pressure. The balancer belt will probably be loose too and will need to be retensioned because they stretch too.
If anyone has the collectiveracing writeup done by 2point6 please share it, the website is down and I'd like to be able to study what's involved before my parts arrive.
As for the crank pulley, I don't have the tool but I read to leave the car in fifth gear and have someone press the brake pedal. Do you think that will work? The tools are anywhere from $40-$70 and I don't want to spend that on something I'm only using once. I'd appreciate any other suggestions for removing the crank pulley, thanks!
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