Didn't realize it was a 5th gen, also didn't realize that was such an issue in a 5th gen.
Sounds completely obnoxious, guess I'm lucky I own a 4th gen in this respect.
Among guys, a 4th gen definately looks fine but what would girls think? The 5th gen is definately good looking in this modern world of honda's....My gf woulnt want to be sitted in a 4th gen prelude or eg's 92 or 93.
Among guys, a 4th gen definately looks fine but what would girls think? The 5th gen is definately good looking in this modern world of honda's....My gf woulnt want to be sitted in a 4th gen prelude or eg's 92 or 93.
Way off topic, but what?!
I got plenty of female friends who both like the car, and have enjoyed learning to drive a manual in the car.
As for the stop leak stuff, and back on topic, I used Lucas Stop Leak, by no means did it stop the oil leak, but it did slow it down, by about half. So, mreh, it wasn't so bad. Temp fix of course, as I said before, I did replace the gaskets.
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'94 Prelude Si (Heavily Damaged)
'93 Prelude VTEC (Work in Progress) TrackBuilt
Hi Dave You should find another prelude just like Shelly.
Heh, I've thought about it, but I think I'm over Preludes - for a few years, at least. I've pretty much given up on finding an unmolested CRX, but would really would love to find a cheap E30 325is. Not that I have space for a second car. :sigh:
Oh, and I just realized I never addressed the original question in the thread - I've tried products like stopleak in the past, but never seen any difference with them. But I guess even on the tiny chance it'll help, it's not much of a financial risk to try.
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Heh, got $900 for it last summer. Rust was fairly superficial, actually - but some rear end body damage that I never took care of, and a lot of oil burning that I didn't want to deal with anymore. Several other minor issues that were annoying, but they all added up. A pretty good bargain for someone with time to work on it, I think.
So yeah, I took the money and ran.
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This remark is decieving. I know this from experience. There are lots of things that need to be removed in order to access the removal of the oil pan. The header or downpipe needs removed (which is a huge PITA), one of the crossmembers needs removed (4 bolts isn't as big of a deal though, but still has to be done) and then all of the oil pan nuts. But here is the kicker... you need a special tool to physically pry the oil pan off of the block. The oil pan "gasket" is nothing more than Hondabond sealant.
However! When I had absolutely everything off and ready to remove the oil pan from the block, I could not for the life of me, get it to budge. The car was on a lift, I had all of my body weight trying to grasp the pan somehow to yank it down, I had a friend help me, I tried to carefully use screwdrivers to pry it off, and NOTHING worked. It was if the pan was stuck on like a suction cup. There's also no actual place to even grip it correctly!
While talking to one of the mechanics in the shop (this was 4 years ago, forgive my memory) he told me I needed some sort of specialized prying device. The name escapes me at the moment, but it was something like butterfly bar or lady's something. I forget but it had an odd name to it that sounded feminine if I remember correctly. Either way, you're going to need whatever that piece is so that you can correctly pry the pan from the block.
By the way, do you have a Type SH or a base? If you have a Type SH, you're going to be looking at substantially higher costs on the oil cooler gasket/seal because the ATTS unit is right in the way of accessing it from below and the intake manifold is right in the way of accessing it from the top. Take your pick of which you'd like to remove!
You do not need a special tool. I used a rubber mallet, and it eventually came off after about 20 minutes of hitting it.
I beat on it right where the #55 is in this exploded parts view.
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You should find another prelude just like Shelly. 
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