Garage said that my engine leaked a bit of oil, from oil filter cooler seal, oil pressure switch and oil pan gasket .... I can smell burnt if i approach the hood and smell from the windshield. I tried this product No Leak Engine Oil Treatment | Canadian Tire
Just applied it today. Wondering if it'll work? I am getting it repaired soon anyways but if the product does work, i might be able to save 300-400$ because the garage told me they need to remove the engine to replace the above's stuffs even though they cost less than 10$ in total in parts...
Garage said my radiator leaked and i did see a bit of leak but i applied some stop leak radiator by motocraft and it did work.
It also reduced my muffler's smoke signiaficantly. Thank you for sharing your thoughts.
Last edited by ayashifx55; 02-19-2010 at 07:19 PM.
There is no miracle in that can. Any positive affects of using that, if there are any, will be short lived. 99% of engine additives are nothing more than a gimmick.
though is it true that replacing the oil filter cooler seal, oil pressure switch and oil pan gasket cost a lot and takes a lot of time? I just want to be sure so i dont get ripped off. Thanks.
If that is what your mechanic quoted you, then yes .
Those parts are all pretty cheap, what you are paying for is almost entirely labor. If you think that mechanic's labor rate is to high, get a quote somewhere else. Better yet, learn to do it yourself...If you have a Helm's manual and basic tools, the Prelude isn't that tough of a car to work on IMO.
oil cooler and oil pan gasket are easy for you to change, just take time. well, oil cooler is a pita, but its one bolt to unscrew, and since you've drained you oil to do it, might as well do the oil pan gasket. don't know myself about the oil pressure gasket, and i don't feel like looking it up.
there is at least 1 write up on how to do the oil cooler. oil pan is just take off, put on. i need to do both of those next time i change my oil.
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If you don't know what you want, you end up with a lot you don't.
oil pan is just take off, put on. i need to do both of those next time i change my oil.
This remark is decieving. I know this from experience. There are lots of things that need to be removed in order to access the removal of the oil pan. The header or downpipe needs removed (which is a huge PITA), one of the crossmembers needs removed (4 bolts isn't as big of a deal though, but still has to be done) and then all of the oil pan nuts. But here is the kicker... you need a special tool to physically pry the oil pan off of the block. The oil pan "gasket" is nothing more than Hondabond sealant.
However! When I had absolutely everything off and ready to remove the oil pan from the block, I could not for the life of me, get it to budge. The car was on a lift, I had all of my body weight trying to grasp the pan somehow to yank it down, I had a friend help me, I tried to carefully use screwdrivers to pry it off, and NOTHING worked. It was if the pan was stuck on like a suction cup. There's also no actual place to even grip it correctly!
While talking to one of the mechanics in the shop (this was 4 years ago, forgive my memory) he told me I needed some sort of specialized prying device. The name escapes me at the moment, but it was something like butterfly bar or lady's something. I forget but it had an odd name to it that sounded feminine if I remember correctly. Either way, you're going to need whatever that piece is so that you can correctly pry the pan from the block.
By the way, do you have a Type SH or a base? If you have a Type SH, you're going to be looking at substantially higher costs on the oil cooler gasket/seal because the ATTS unit is right in the way of accessing it from below and the intake manifold is right in the way of accessing it from the top. Take your pick of which you'd like to remove!
i use just a razor to cut away at the gasket and a hammer. i've never used a special tool. its not a must. might make it easier, but its not impossible to take it off without. i never used anything special when i put a new oil pan on my sh.
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If you don't know what you want, you end up with a lot you don't.
Mine was really easy, and had an actual separate gasket.
Also, I did not need to remove the manifold or down pipe, just loosen the bolts and move it out of the way. Of course that bar had to be removed.
But the hard part was cleaning off a very stuck on gasket... lots of kerosene, a heat gun, chisel, and then a wire brush to fix it all when done.
You have a 4th Gen prelude though. The OP and myself have a 5th gen. The differences are that your 4th Gen uses an actual rubber oil pan gasket that goes all around the perimeter of the STEEL oil pan. The 5th gen uses only Hondabond around the perimeter of the ALUMINUM oil pan. I was extremely cautious when using a screwdriver, because one wrong move, and I could've dented the flat surface face of the aluminum oil pan with my steel tools to where it wouldn't seal correctly anymore. A 4th gen oil pan is naturally more resistant because of what it's made out of.
And lilredlude, I actually never thought of it like that before, I guess you could've used a razor to fit in between the pan and the block. Touche, I learned something today!
on mine you can see the gasket - not sure if it has been reinstalled or if its original. but there is 1/8" gasket you can see and fit a blade between.
i also use that to scrape off the rest of the old gasket. on my jeep's differentials and transmissions i use lube locker, its too bad they don't have a wider range of products. its the best gasket ever.
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If you don't know what you want, you end up with a lot you don't.
I'll vouch for the incredible pain in the rectum an SH is when it comes to getting to the oil cooler gasket. You can only fit one arm down to reach it, and can't see a thing - it's a "touch" job. Getting the new gasket to stay in place when you reinstall was just about impossible, I ended up having to use axle grease to stick it in place.
So labor is a factor that's going to cost some money . . . but removing the engine to do those things? complete bullsh|t.
Oh, and I pulled my oil pan once, it wasn't a big deal on mine - granted I had everything taken apart already to replace the clutch & flywheel. But prying it off wasn't an issue on my 5th gen. The (much) bigger obstacle was separating the cat from the b-pipe - the bolts on mine had to be completely torched off.
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Hey Michelle . . . how's your fleet of beater's running?
I like my Fit, but it's not as entertaining as the Prelude was. I miss having a car that's got things wrong with it. I wanna buy an old BMW or Land Rover or something.
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Hi Dave You should find another prelude just like Shelly.
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Name: Jack-in-the-Box -|- Car: Meep-meep -|- 2001 EBP Type SH Gremlin Infested. Do Not Add Water. Seriously, DO NOT ADD WATER. RIP. To be replaced.
I do not need to explain anything to you.
My broken wings still strong enough to cross the ocean with.
My broken wings how far should I go drifting in the wind.
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The (much) bigger obstacle was separating the cat from the b-pipe - the bolts on mine had to be completely torched off.
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