ok, so i bought a 01 sh 5 speed, i bought it with a kamakazie 4/1 header, aem long ram cold air intake (i guess thats what its called? the head comes out by the tire) neuspeed upper strut tie bar, full exhaust (not really sure what brand, i know it matters but just havent been able to check) and kyowa racing 206 flat black tires. im assuming no cams, but again havent checked. Are these good parts to have or should i replace them? I have a grand coming to me soon, what else would a experienced lude owner get? short shifter, cams, lip etc... i'm wanting to do more with performance than looks.
The header is unknown and doubtfully helpful performance wise.
The SH is limited in performance upragability because the ATTS unit can only handle so much torque, then it shuts off and becomes dead weight.
Good headers come from SMSP, Hytech, RMF(...not really around anymore), and Mugen. There are two others I just recently learned about that I can't remember.
If I were you, cams maybe. stage 1 would do it. VAFCII would be good for your ATTS issue.
i looked up the header and i found the website and part number, so i guess its unknown to you? i've had someone off the bat say "oh thats a kamakazie header, if you look at my car pics it says it on it.
im can afford a new header, i havent seen many people on here with a kami header, and i would really like to have the best in performance parts what is a good brand? whats the spec on a 4 to 1 or 2 to 1???? what works better with a lude. also ceramic? alum? etc... is the neuspeed bar even needed on a non turbo prelude?
The header the OP has is great for high RPMs but it might lose a little on the low end. IMO I don't think its worth the 300ish to buy another header just yet. Tuning would be a great option, skunk2 pro1s and a tune would be even better but I'm not sure if he could afford both. He lives in LA (as do I) so there is no emissions testing. He could save some change not getting the greddy emanage and getting a obd1 ecu and harness from phearable and finding a tuner to tune that.
i checked out phearable.com and i'm just learning about ecus (dont know much) i'm starting to wonder if my lude already has a chip. I dont know if preludes come factory with a govenor on them or not. I know i've gotten my car up to 140mph with no sign of a cut off. I bought the car from an auction with no history of what all is done to the car. how would i be able to check if i have a obd1 already?
I'd trade the SH for a base or swap the motor and trans.
Some people like to hate on replicas but the Private Label Tri-y header's performance has been proven and IMO great bang for your buck.
Engine management, seeking serious performance converting to OBD1 and getting a stand alone system will be the best way to go but you'll lose ATTS for sure and you'll be lugging around dead weight with it.
Your car isn't chipped as the P13 has no chips available, all USDM cars are capable of putting the needle to the other end of the dash but at that speed an analog gauge is pretty inaccurate.
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Before this thread gets anymore into header/ecu topic, what about my strut bar? Should i just leave it on there? Also, my cars in the shop either about to get a new crankshaft, or a new engine, it'll be up to the insurance people. Guess what i'd like... The dealership already told me they are gonna push a new engine because it'd be cheaper (labor-wise) for them as appose to the man hours put into fixing a bunch of small problems. How would a brand new engine affect my situation? I just want a 300whp sleeper, daily driver. i'm guessing theres somewhere between 10-15,000 5th Gen Sh's out there so one day this car is going to be retired in a garage and try to get it back to as stock as possible.
I had the exact same CAI as you. If you want to borrow off of my hardship, insure you have a bypass valve and/or water-shield correctly installed before you worry about anything else. With it hanging that low, I managed to get a hydrolock in 4" of water and lose out on 700$ and pretty close to 50 hours of my time. Insurance also paid me 1900$ but that's neither here nor there, it's just a suggestion.
Edit: I don't think you're going to get a very good "sleeper" with a Honda Prelude. Maybe a mid-90's Accord sedan, but I don't think anyone expects a Prelude to be particularly slow. Also, I've yet to see 300 whp attained without boost, which is going to run well over your $1000 budget.
I guess my deff of sleeper is off. I thought it was more about just havin like bumper lip setup, with little interior changes, and moderate engine mods. Im sure it varies, or am i way off?
How much did u get it for.How many miles you can only do so much to an sh people say all the time the atts can only handle 250hp ive seen a couple of them with a supercharger. I would not put 250hp in it though if it has alot of miles on it because there are clutches in the atts unit.They dont sell those on the market so if u burn them up u need to buy a whole new unit.I want to stress to u that if u want to drag race this is not the car for u its made for the turns
I guess my deff of sleeper is off. I thought it was more about just havin like bumper lip setup, with little interior changes, and moderate engine mods. Im sure it varies, or am i way off?
Uhhh yeah not even in the same ballpark.
A sleeper has no visible modifications - interior or exterior - apart from upgrades under the hood. Not even a suspension or an exhaust, unless it's as close to stock sounding/looking as possible. The point is to make people THINK they can beat you.
oh, okay--- with the sleeper thing. I'm getting a new long block put in from my extended warrenty. the original engine has 127000+ on it. I guess i just want to be able to beat a stock 350z. Is that more practical way to think?
a sleeper is a car that looks like an old man or an old lady drives it but then it kicks your ass, like if someone suped up a lincoln continental or something, best ones are the harry and the henderson looking station wagons people drag race in
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