I decided to go with the Jackson Racing Supercharger for reasons I discussed on my other thread. I basically believed that for reliability and maintainability, nothing could beat it. I didn't realize some of the downfalls such as a lack of aftermarket support on it and upgrades. The supercharger crowd is probably the black sheep of the H22 community just because of those reasons. But I chose it anyway probably because I'm the kind of guy that's always rooting for the underdog, so I decided to see what I could do with it. First off, the kit really does come with everything you need. It comes with two belts, a fuel pump and all kinds of hardware to keep you from running out to the store late at night. The kit made for the type SH even comes with an oil filter relocator (not available with the Base kit).
There are some obvious deficiencies with the kit I noticed, and they can really be a pain. The first is once the kit is on, no more tinkering with the backside of your engine. Especially with the type SH. There's simply no way to do anything about leaks or wires back there, luckily there aren't many wires back there in the first place, but there is the fuel filter which you'll never be able to get to
This might mean either taking the supercharger off or taking the head with the supercharger off (in one piece) or taking the ATTS off...
Their are also 4 or maybe more (I forget) nipples sticking up out of the base-plate where the supercharger assembly mounts to the bottom intake manifold piece you'll reuse. Once the kit is on, you really have no room to ever access these in case you need to replace a hose properly because first, it's damn near impossible to bend any tool that way and second, the nipples are sized just so that they don't really accept any kind of clamp. I've tried the Value-Pack spring load clamps that Auto parts stores sell and I've tried the adjustable clamps, but neither really does the trick. Some people might use zip ties but come on, you don't see zip ties coming factory on hoses now do you? I suggest you be creative and find your own approach to clamping those hoses down (especially if you've got a boost gauge) so they won't blow off later.
To the right of the supercharger rotor pulley, you'll see some of those nipples that have a rubber caps over them and they're zip-tied down. There are 3 in a row right there and access will be blocked by any means of a tool once its installed, meaning you can't use your needlenose plyers on this one!
The supercharger itself at regular boost makes 6psi. That's enough for owners of the kit to make intake temperatures of 150 degrees or more (farenheit). That's not a good temperature to be at and even my famous bag of ice trick works so well. I suggest that you run the best octane fuel you can get or find a methanol injection kit to make max. horsepower or you'll be not realizing the most horsepower you can get by richening up the mixture or pulling timing. I have personally seen intake temperature of 170 degrees farenheit on the supercharger.
There is a real easy way to get more boost for a cheap price. The Honda Accord (98-02) crank pulley is larger than the H22's crank pulley which means that at the same engine speed, the pulley will be turning the belt faster, this in turn gives the supercharger more boost. Do not get a previous Honda Accord's crank pulley belt, because #1) it will not fit (will rub) and #2) it take a 4 rib belt and your car takes a 5 rib belt.
But beware that if you purchase this pulley that you will need to get a longer serpentine pulley than the JRSC kit came with!!!
I read numerous articles saying people were discouraged that the endyne pulley kit made the belt slip due to smaller pulleys and I got excited thinking that I didn't have those smaller pulleys yet was still making 9psi of boost without belt slippage. Well the belt will still slip I've come to find out. On my first and only dyno session, by the 7th pull, we were seeing boost come down to 4 or 5psi because the belt was slipping. Oh, and PS, it was a brand new belt as well. I'm going to try that belt dressing (STP or CCP makes a good one) to see if it'll alleviate some of the problem.
But here is a picture of the crank pulley, the best part is, you won't have to worry about messing up your crank if it's not balanced or blueprinted because it's still OEM and still designed to function just like the regular H22 one.
I suppose after some trial and error and seeing other peoples HP numbers, that I can conclude that putting lower compression pistons in with a supercharger is not necessarily the right recipe for more power, unlike its turbo brethern. But if you're rebuilding your motor, which you should if you're FI'ing an H22, then maybe go up in compression. Chances are you'll never get above 9 or 12psi and at which point if you live in the east where 93 and sometimes 94 is available at the pump, then you should be okay and make alot more power than I am. Remember high compression pistons + boost = only safer and more powerful if you have a very high octane fuel to ward off detonation. But we'll see if the addition of Nitrous to the mix improves my top hp at all. Keep posted on that later.
For an intake, this is the only aftermarket intake I've ever owned for the Prelude, I saw it in Modified Magazine Years ago and was hooked on it instantly. It's made by the company Top Fuel and the most notable part about it (obviously) was the carbon fiber chamber right before the throttle body. AEM would roll out with the V2 a few short months later I believe, and I noticed they used an air chamber concept as well, so I considered this the forerunner to it. The company advertises the chamber as useful in case you suddently stomped on the throttle and rather than having to wait for the short miliseconds before you felt the burst of speed, the extra air inside that chamber would be there right away to go into the throttle body for a decrease in that lag. I can't say that's necessarily true after putting it on, but it does have a deep, booming roar to it that you can tell air is being harmonized in there when you step on the throttle with the windows down. It's been well worth it to have something that sounds this good and also looks this bad-ass and I would highly recommend it. Just make sure to replace their poor filter element at the end with a K&N like I did.
