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Originally Posted by marcucci
He wants to know if he needs to get longer springs to account for this. I can see this being an issue if your free length was just right to take up the gap between the perch & the cap with the suspension fully unloaded AND you wanted to change the ride height. For instance, if you soften the suspension and want to raise the car, you would have to adjust the perch a lot more to counteract the softer springs and get above your current ride height. You could get away with less adjustment with longer springs.
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Yes, if you're adjustment is close to the next longer/shorter spring length. If he needs to adjust the perch 10mm, getting a 25mm longer spring might not be the best solution.
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Originally Posted by marcucci
Right now, the generic coilovers I have on the Prelude are dialed up to the top of the sleeve to get the ride height I want with the springs that I have- a longer spring would help this.
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Yes, this is one instance where longer springs would be useful. The general rule of thumb is to use the longest spring you can to lessen the twisting loads on the damper itself. Longer springs also have more compression travel until full coil bind, which is a plus. However longer springs weigh more. On a 3k lb Prelude, that's not a big deal, but on a pure race car, it could be.
That being said, for high spring rates, it can be difficult to find springs that are a long and have a high spring rate. This is one reason why I'm going to go with 7" long springs with my new shocks (I can't get the rate I want in the rear with an 8" long spring, but they are available in 7" long springs). The 7" long springs should have plenty of travel so that I won't have to worry about coil bind with the shorter spring.