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Originally Posted by sohclovin
Okay some things have come up...
I went to my local Dyno with a Dynoflow Dyno.. the most accurate dyno known to man sapposedly..
I hit a 10.5:1 Air/Fuel Ratio.. and when Vtec Hits, it drops down to a 8.5-9:1 Air Fuel ratio.. i left a BLACK STREAK on the dyno from my exhaust soot...
I dynoed at 100 WHP and 110 lbs tq... now even the Chevy guys at the Dyno knew something was up with this... So we used the Apexi and DROPPED the Fuel ALL THE WAY ACROSS THE BOARD... we went -35% fuel from 1000-5000 rpms... and -25% at Vtec on..
After this i hit a 12.5:1 Air/Fuel ratio and at Vtec i hit a 11.5:1 Air fuel ratio.. STILL WAY TO RICH..
With this tunning i hit 120 WHP and 129 LBS tq.. THIS IS A JOKE i was thinking.. so i took her home and RIPPED her apart...
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Why the hell would you dyno an engine that you know isn't running right?
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Originally Posted by sohclovin
I found a NUMBER of things wrong..
#1 the Crank pulley is a "Fourm Racing" Light weight aluminum Crank pulley.. it has NO TIMING MARK AT ALL ON IT.. 5 diff people have looked.. there IS NO MARK AT ALL...
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This is an H22 right? If so, there are no timing marks on the crank pulley. The timing marks are on the
flywheel. Do you have a Helms manual? If not, I'd suggest you buy one, you sound like you're shooting in the dark hoping that some you do will magically make the engine run perfect.
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Originally Posted by sohclovin
#2 That same crank pulley is LOCK-TITE on at 300+ lbs of tq... we hit it with a 250 impact, nothing... we even used my 800 lbs tq ARMY TOQUE wrench for takeing tanks apart, it BROKE my 1/2 extension in HALF..
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That's typical. You sure there's Loctite on the bolt? A 250 ft*lb impact isn't going to budge that bolt. It's quite difficult to get it with a 1/2" breaker bar without some serious flex, and forget about using a 1/2" extension. You'll twist it in two.
I use a 3.5 ft. long 3/4" drive breaker bar with 3/4" drive extensions. Because of the size of the hole in the Honda crank pulley holder, I have to use a 3/4" to 1/2" adapter and a 1/2" 19mm socket. I've twisted more than a few of the 3/4" to 1/2" adapters in half on crank pulley bolts. Stock torque spec is 181 ft*lbs, so I'd imagine 300 to 400+ ft*lbs to break it loose. Since I wised up and got the right tools, I haven't had any problems getting crank pulley bolts or driveshaft nuts off on a Prelude, and I've done a ton of them. Air tools get me almost nowhere, but the breaker bar hasn't let me down yet.
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Originally Posted by sohclovin
#3 The timing belt feels loose, but with no way to get the pulley off i can't get the timing cover off, and i can't adjsut the belt tension... but i DON'T think it skiped a tooth, but i could be wrong..
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AFAIK all USDM H22s had autotensioners, so you cannot adjust the timing belt tension. I would imagine JDM engines are the same.
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Originally Posted by sohclovin
#5 We noticed a KINK in the fuel line so we desided to take it off.. when we did we found something KEWL... we found not only is there a AEM High Volume Fuel rail, AEM High Volume Fuel Filter and a Walbro 255 LPH Fuel Pump, but my jaw dropped when i pulled the injectors...
***450cc*** Injectors came out! i was like WTF!! HUGE RCs...these things are MASSIVE.. with a DUAL spray pattern and TWICE as big around as my stock injectors.. now even I know this is wrong..
My friend who was with me HAPPONED to have a SPARE set of Injectors from his B17.. outa his 1992 GSR.. so i put them in hopeing it would solve the problem..
I tunned my Apexi Back to 0 and started her up..
Still Read 40 PSI of Fuel pressure on my gauge.. but she had a ROLLING IDLE.. between 1000-1300 rpms.. if you retard the distributer at ALL the car runs WAY worse.. even fulley advanced the car still doesn't sound right.. i mean it Idles nicely, but at Snap Throttle, it BOGS WAY BAD.. i mean at ANY load or Snap Throttle you can hear and feel it bog..
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So let me get this straight, you install injectors that are too small for the ECU, then you blindly set the timing and actually drove the car like that???
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Originally Posted by sohclovin
All i know is i'm GOING BACK TO STOCK.. i mean i'm SELLING ALL THIS STUFF off this motor to BUY or TRADE for OEM equipment and tunning...
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I think that's probably the smartest decision you've made yet, but why get rid of all the stuff. Just put everything back to stock and trouble shoot the engine.
Have you even done a compression and leak down test to determine if the engine is even healthy at all? That would have been one of the FIRST things I would have done.
Have you checked the ignition components; distributor cap & rotor, wires, plugs, etc.? Have you checked the valve lash?
Fuel is an obvious problem, but it sounds like you have many other problems.
Buy a Helms and become familiar with the engine, and stop making blind adjustments. It could cost you more than dyno time.