|
Originally Posted by myself
running a turbo and running a reliable turbo kit are two completely different things.
Alot of people cut corners with things such as fmu's, afc's, and cheap manifolds and parts that warrant more and more money to be invested into your setup. If you plan on selling your car soon go budget boost, because you will be causing detrimental damage to your engine internals.
When I first started researching turbo's I was about to take the plunge after about 6 months of research until I ran accross an article about tuning, afr, and timing. I wish I could find it because it scared the living **** out of me. Finding that balance between the most power and the most reliability is not cheap.
"budget boost = boom" in my book
This is how you build a reliable turbo kit to fit your needs and if you skip one of these steps it could be the end of your kit or worse, the end of your motor.
#1
First when you decide to build a turbo kit you want to
determine what your overall end goals will be. Personally I want around 500 whp on pump gas around 16-17 psi. after you have decided what your overall goals are then build the kit around that
#2
size your turbo
Now you want to size a turbo for your application, in my situation I figured an sc-61 would do the job well ( wish I would have bought a gt35r because of spool but oh well) and it will do just fine.
#3
Choose an exhaust to fit your power needs buf not exceed your desired desible level
( manifold, exhaust piping, downpipe, wastegate size etc)
In choosing your exhaust components you want to choose things that will work well together. If you decide you want big power it will benefit you well to choose an equal length manifold (lovefab, onefab, full race etc) over a log style (turbonetics, drag etc.) . Full race ran a test and showed an equal length manifold will wrap you around 40 more whp over a standard log style.
Now decide on wastegate size. a 38mm will do fine up to about 350whp I beleive and anything over that I would recommend a 40-44mm vband to keep boost creep to a minimum.
When choosing all your exhaust components this is a good time to decide wether or not you will need air conditioning. If you do need air conditioning then a log style with a smaller sized downpipe will be a better situation for you. If you do not need a/c than an equal length manifold will do you well although many of them require downsizing to a civic radiator so investing in a dual core with a slim fan, fan switch and thermostat are necesary to keep engine temps low and keep your motor reliable.
Now decide what size downpipe and exhuast you want based on how much power you want and how many modifications you are willing to do to get that large 3" dp and exhaust in there.
#4 choose your intercooler and ic piping and bov
choose and size an intercooler to fit your needs and intercooler piping. Personaly a chose a pwr 24x8x3 air to air intercooler because of its efficiency and ability to fit behind the stock bumper with a lil trimming of the front bumper support.
Now choose intercooler piping size. Personaly I ran with 2.5" because of the amount of power I want and the speed the air will be traveling in the intercooler piping. This will affect spool times and throttle response and if you go to small and the air velocity in the pipes is to high you will loose massive amounts over power. <- super complex I don't want to explain
Choose a bov
The easy part, pick one you like the sound of. Personaly I like the fluttery noise of the blitz dual drive so I went with that.
#5 choose an engine management system to fit your needs and around what your local tuners capabilities are.
AEM EMS, hondata, uberdata, autronic etc., e manage, there are plenty out there personaly I prefer hondata and uberdata( if you can find a tuner) and my favorite is the aem ems when tuned by torque freaks. They have the ability to make a car run like stock with the ems.. Personaly I want big power so I chose the aem ems for its versatility and endless possibilites and I also picked up a plx m300 wideband to add to the reliability of the kit,
#6 choose a fuel system
fuel pump, injectors, etc.
Many of your fuel components will need to be replaced when turboing to provide more fuel to your setup. Along with a larger map sensor if you decide to go with more than 12psi
#7 Determine wether to build motor
This is for those of you who want more than around 300whp and more than 7 lbs of boost. Personaly I want a **** load of power so I am having my bottom end built by dan benson and the head built and polished by portflow.
#8 Applying the power to the ground
When you build a turbo kit your stock clutch will not handle the new found power so you must upgrade. I am running a act xtss but I plan on upgrading to either a tilton multi disk carbon or a exedy multi disk but these clutches run into the uper echelons of around 2-3k$. These clutches allow for virtualy stock clutch feel and smooth engagement while still allowing for huge amounts of power and drivability. Also a good limited slip differential is not a bad idea to upgrade so your not just weeding your power away to one wheel. A good flyhweel is also beneficial in a turbo setup depending on where you want your power in the rpm spectrum and what drivability you are willing to sacrafice. I chose an exedy 9lb
This is just a brush on things. I could seriously go on for pages but I don't want to because its late :wink:.. The thing is that I personaly dont beleive reliable budget boost is possible unless you've built turbo kits or worked on plenty or owned a turbo honda and fought the difficulties related with one.
With that known, if you are a welder and a tuner with turbo honda experience you can build a turbo kit for pretty cheap :lol:
|