OvaDaLimiT

Hey man...glad it worked out for you! And also good to hear you didn't hafta mess with the relay. Man, that compustar is pretty kickass...they have everything almost set up for you!

And for the rest of u guys...here's the email i wrote him:

Ok...i'll try to explain everything as best i can....

To begin...here just some info you should know. The accord trunk actuator is the "positive trigger" type described in your compustar page, meaning that blue wire needs positive (+) current to activate it. It grounds through the car body or the connector that attaches to it. In figure #2 of the compustar page you scanned, it mentions to tap the violet/white (i'll call this v/w) wire into the "factory trunk release solenoid"...thing is...our prelude isn't electrical and uses a cable pull trunk release system instead...that's where the accord actuator/solenoid thingamajigger comes into play

So...to begin...mount the actuator first. Take off the stock sucker (2 bolts)...then bolt on the new accord one. When taking the first one off, the rod coming from the keyhole might be hard to take off...trick is you need to rotate the plastic clip around, then it just slides out. Don't try to pull that clip out or anything...it just clips from the side of the bar. hope that made sense. Anyways...so get that bar off, the cable pull wire off, and i believe there's a connector also. Now compare the accord one (has the extra motorized part) to the stock one. Take special notice where and how the cable pull thing attached to the stock one. It attaches to the Accord one exactly in the same fashion, but from the top, so you'll need to relocate hte pull wire from the side to the top on the underside of the trunk. So...reattach the keyhole rod, the plug, and mount the accord one with the 2 bolts. Then mount the cable pull thing from the top as described...the plastic part clips in and the ball part just hooks in. (i wish i had a digicam so i can just take a picture of it). Ok...take a screwdriver or something hard and kinda small, and push the thing inbetween the V shape opening so it locks (i.e. pretend like your closing the trunk w/o actually closing the trunk. If you close the trunk and it doesn't unlock...that would be no good). Go test that the cable thing works by pulling the trunk release on the driver side. Next check your key in the trunk hole to see if that works also. If these check out, your good to go for this part.

On to the next...testing the actuator. Take some long wire...just twist it temporarily to the blue wire, and close the trunk (but with the wire that's attached to the blue wire sticking out of the trunk still. You might want to just quickly tape the exposed wire to insure that it doesn't contact the car body when you close your trunk. Take the other end of the wire and touch the red (+) post of your battery under your hood. The trunk should "pop" and open. So...that if that works, next comes the alarm part.

In looking at your compustar page, i'm assuming that you won't need the supplied relay like most of us use. I say this because it requests power or ground and has two wires (one to source either power or ground, and the other end to attach to the actuator). So...the only way to find out is to test it, right? Take the v/w wire, and temporarily attach it to the end of the wire that is attached to the blue wire of the actuator, which you previously used to test the actuator on the car battery. Next, take the violet wire, and tap that into a 12v constant power source (meaning it is ALWAYS on, and doesn't disconnect when the ignition off). In the prelude, easiest spot (besides the battery itself), is under the dash's driverside fusebox - you will see four exposed tabs above the fuses. They aren't perfectly aligned...2 are lower, while the 2 closer to the front of the car are a little higher placed. The one you want to tap into is the one farthest towards the rear of the car of the 4 (Left side when you're facing the fuse panel). Take the violet wire and tap into this exposed tab. You can purchase these flat connectors that plug into the flat connector of the fusebox. So...after hooking that up...test the actuator with your remote (i.e. close the trunk, and activate trunk release from your alarm remote). It *SHOULD* work.

If it doesn't, then my assumption that it has a built in relay is wrong and we'll hafta use the relay that came with the actuator. So, looking at your wonderful drawing, i'll describe it using #1, #2, #3, & #5.
#5 - attaches to the blue wire of the trunk actuator
#2 - attaches to the v/w wire of the compustar
#3 & #1 - attach to the Constant Power described earlier where you attempted to attach the violet wire (driver side fuse box, farthest left tab).
Violet wire off compustar - Attach it to a ground of the chassis. If you look around the fuse box area, i believe there's a good grounding point there. Look for wires attached to a screw which is screwed into metal of the car body/frame...that would be your grounding source you need to tap into.

After making these connections, test the actuator with your remote again. This time, it should work. If not, shoot me an email and i'll see what else i can come up with.

So...now knowing how it works...you need to permanently run that temp wire through the cabin of your car. You can run it through the plastic wire loom on the right side of the trunk hinge, under hte trunk liner, out the back seat of the driver side,run it along the bottom seat half where it meets teh plastic (you can shove the wire under the plastic). Pop off the lower door opening sill and you can run the wire under that...then out the front which is right where the fusebox is. It's pretty easy since the wire you're using isn't terribly thick. Now that you're all wired up, make the connections as you had it before when it worked, clean up, store everything back into it's proper corners in the car, and that should be it.

Lemme know if you run into any problems tomorrow, i should be checking my email or h/a intermittenly....

PS: Nice drawings =D

Enjoy