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Installing Foglights
In brief: Remove the turn signals, hook up the front harness and lights, hook up the interior harness to the fuse box, aim lights.
Time: 1 hour
Most Difficult Part: Installing the foglight housing.
Tools: Long phillips screwdriver, voltmeter, extra nuts and bolts.
Optional but recommended: plastic pry bars(bicycle tire irons).
I will provide instructions for installing the Japanese Foglights as those are the ones I purchased. There are a few differences between the Japanese and US foglight kit. The main differences are the foglight housing. Also, the japanese kit has a different wiring harness and does not come with the switch panel. The switch panel has an extra cutout for the foglight switch.
Once again, obtain the instructions from your dealer. If you are installing the US foglights, just follow these instructions. If you are installing aftermarket foglights, you can use the pre-wired foglight connector so you don't have to route things through the firewall.
The Japanese foglights do not come with clip nuts so you'll have to get some nuts and bolts from the hardware store.
Get out your radio codes and disconnect the negative terminal of the battery.
For the fog light housing just follow the instructions, they're pretty clear. You have to use your own nuts and bolts (4) for the Japanese kit. I'll just add that you might want to leave the lights out and make sure they work before you screw everything in. The light terminals are polarized but not labeled and the plug can go on either way. So you have to make sure that the lights are connected with the right polarity, otherwise they won't light up. If I recall correctly the positive(orange) wire goes on the left side of both lights.(That is when you look from the front on.) Alternatively, looking at the backside of the lights make sure the orange wire is on the righthand side.
As for the interior harness:
There are 4 optional connectors in the fuse/relay panel on the driver's side. Their functions are as follows:
1.+12V When ignition is in the "ON" position.
2.+12V When dash lights are on (i.e. parking lights OR headlights are on).
3.+12V When ignition is in the "II" position.
5.+12V ALWAYS.
(I'm sure about 2,5 and pretty sure about 1,3 but you might want to double check).
Connect the main power( to the fused link) to option connector #5. You can connect the other connect to #2 if you want to operate the lights only when the other lights are on or to #1 if you want to be able to operate the fogs anytime the engine is on. This also controls when and how the switch is illuminated.
For this foglight kit I had to decide which switch to replace. My choice was between the cruise control master switch or the interior lights dimmer. I decided to set the interior brightness and then leave it. So I replaced the dimmer switch with the foglight switch and secured the dimmer switch behind the panel.
The only thing I'll add is that I couldn't find a convenient place to hook up the ground spade connector and the relay so I hooked it up to the lower bolt of the hood release. This contacts the chasis and should make for a good ground connection.
Lastly reconnect the battery, enter the radio codes and aim the lights with the adjusting screw.
The other good thing about these lights is that the turn signal blocks access to them so it's a little harder to rip off.
TIP: The light bulbs that come with this unit are type H3C which no one in the US has heard of. They are basically like H3 bulbs but with two connectors (one for positive and negative). Anyway, if you want to replace the bulbs, you can buy H3's and solder on a metal lead off the side so that the stock harness will still work. Just make sure the piece is the same width and thickness of the old lead on the H3C's and that it extends out about the same. Also, be sure not to short out the two contacts.
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